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| At Tashkent Airport Departure lounge in Uzbekistan. Sleepless night of 2 transit flight plane journey 's beginning at home in Mumbai to Tashkent. Haggard and anxious in Tashkent to board third plane, the 0800 hrs " Uzbekistan Airways( Flight" No Hy 717) to Dushanbe in Tajikistan. |
Having travelled across Uzbekistan.Kazakhstan,Azerbaijan,Georgia and Armenia in Central Asia/Europe decided to continue my travel across Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia after completion of my travel to New Zealand and Republic of Fiji in March 2024.On Tuesday( 7/5/2024) booked my jigsaw puzzle online air ticket "Mumbai - New Delhi - Tashkent - Dushanbe - Tashkent -Bishkek-Tashkent- Mumbai" through "Go To Gate" online travel site. .As they say in "Solo Travel", it's the journey and not the destination that adds through the thrill and adventure of visiting new Countries and cities.Cost of the air fare amounted to Rs 82,143 only.After booking the ticket as usual booked my accommodation in Dushanbe and Bishkek through "www.booking.com".Next procured my "E-Visa" to Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan through Mr Ramamurthy.Iyer of "Farshak Travels(Prabhadevi)". The Kyrgyzstan "E-Visa" fees amounted to Rs 12,450 and the Tajikistan Visa fees to Rs 4,470 with the grand total just for "E-Visa" and processing fees amounting to a total of Rs 16,920. Hence the grand total for my Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan air travel including visa processing fees amounted to Rs 82,143 + Rs 16,920 = Rs 99,063 only. Travel is definitely very expensive even at the very basic economy budget level of expenditure.
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| Can you recognize this Mumbai coastline as seen from the plane. |
Monday(3/6/2024)Departure Mumbai and arrival Dushanbe on Tuesday(4/6/2024) :- As usual was early at Chatrapati Shivaji Terminal 2 to board " Indigo Flight 6E2326 " to Delhi.After normal check - in formality whiled away my time loafing around the airport lounge ,browsing at the bookshop .Was also happy that the " Stock Market" had taken off into the stratosphere on the back of the " EXIT Poll" news that " BJP" and Prime Minister Narendra Modi would form the next Government.Take-Off was delayed by a hour and at 1740 hrs we finally took off for Delhi.At 1830 hrs landed at Delhi Domestic airport T2 and the "DELHI HEAT WAVE" on stepping out of the airport reminded me of my sailing day's on various ship's when the ship's engine room temperatures would average 50*c + while sailing across the calm Red Sea during summer .From T2 Terminal it was a long walk to Indira Gandhi International Airport Terminal T3 and was absolutely relieved to be in the comfort of the excellent central air-conditioning system of the airport.After the normal checking of Visa ,etc was issued the boarding pass and next had to undergo immigration check and finally past the palatial duty free shopping boulevard onto Gate 17A for boarding the flight to Tashkent.I was worried of missing the flight from Delhi due to the delay in Mumbai but then all's well that ends well.Boarding of " Indigo 6E1805" was prompt at 1950 hrs as also the flight to Tashkent.Arrived at Tashkent at 2345 hrs and after exiting through immigration walked out of the airport to the departure terminal.Thankfully there are no visa restrictions for transit flights through Tashkent and had to spend a sleepless night in the large cold air-conditioned lounge of Tashkent airport.
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| Outside Dushanbe Old Airport building which has the statue of Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin in front of the building. |
At 0500 hrs did my check-in as thankfully all airline traffic timetable is also shown in English language.
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| " Sakho( Obud) Hotel/ Hostel" my residence in Dushanbe situated at 149 M,Nazarshoev St . The entire building is a hotel cum hostel. |
The Uzbekistan plane seemed brand new and it was a pleasant 45 minutes air travel from Tashkent to Dushanbe.At 0800 hrs stepped onto Country No 98,Tajikistan.Dushanbe situated on the Varzob river, located in Gisar valley at 2,700 ft above sea level is the capital and largest city of Tajikistan.Until 1929 the city was known in Russian as Dyushambe and from 1929 to 1961 as Stalinabad after Joseph Stalin.In travel it's the journey that is half of the entire travel adventure either by road,train,ship,plane,motorcycle or cycle.Ahoy!Weather was excellent, warm but not hot.At the immigration got my " E- Visa" acknowledged and passport stamped and walking out of arrivals was approached by young taxi driver Dilawar, fantastic salesman who coaxed me to use his taxi although my hotel was walking distance . I didn't want to search aimlessly for my Hotel/Hostel as language was a handicap for directions with locals .
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| Exotic Dry Fruits in Dushanbe |
There is a "Foreign Exchange trader at the exit of "Arrivals Terminal" and changed U.S Dollars into Tajik Somoni currency @ 1 US Dollar = 10.73 Somoni(TJS). There is a landmark statue of U.S.S.R Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin in front of the old airport building and its not everyday that a person gets to view a Cosmonauts statue in a prime location of a country.After a photoshoot outside the airport was dropped at " Obud Hotel " which doesn't have its sign board but instead has the name " Hotel- Hostel Sakho" at its grand entrance situated on 149 M .Nazarshoev Street.In hindsight good i used the taxi to reach my hostel otherwise would have been walking aimlessly searching for "Obud Hotel" while the actual name was "Hotel-Hostel Sakho".The entire building is a hotel with the reception and common hostel situated on the second floor of this landmark building. The manager Mr Abdul Rehman was very friendly and allotted me my room, wide, spacious and having excellent air conditioning.One of the hostel mates was young Mr Qamar from Pakistan who had visited Delhi and a few cities in India All were Asian guests with most being of Pakistan origin.
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| Tajikistan s a landlocked country lying in the heart of Central Asia. It is bordered by Kyrgyzstan on the north, China on the east, Afghanistan on the south, and Uzbekistan on the west and northwest. Tajikistan encompasses the smallest amount of land among the five Central Asian states, but in terms of elevation it surpasses them all, enclosing more and higher mountains than any other country in the region. Tajikistan was a constituent (union) republic of the Soviet Union from 1929 until its independence in 1991.Dushanbe,capital of Tajikistan lies along the Varzob (Dushanbinka) River in the Gissar valley, in the southwest of the republic. It was built in the Soviet period on the site of three former settlements, of which the largest was named Dyushambe (Tajik dush, meaning “Monday,” its bazaar day). |
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| Sakho Hotel-Hostel (Obud) building ,my residence in Dushanbe. Walking distance from airport. |
Had a excellent breakfast and later a hot water bathe with the hotel's geyser being excessively efficient and if not careful in adjusting the " Hot/ Cold" water mixture could scald oneself. Relaxed on the hotel wifi which was excellent.Today would be a total rest day and most shocking was the landslide collapse of the Indian Stock Exchange due to the actual counting of votes on Tuesday (4/6/2024) proving the previous day's " Exit Poll" news as fiction with opposition " INDIA" Party Poll alliance winning unexpected seats and shocking a mega crore Industry of news media psephologists.
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| The cute beautiful Goldfish in the aquarium of "Sakho Hotel-Hostel" whom i named "Nemo". My non-human companion during my short stay in the hotel.Pet's are stress relievers and after a tired days city travel staring at the fish tank and watching "Nemo"lazily resting or slowly swimming in his palatial fish tank soothed my tired nerves. |
The most bizarre elections in my lifetime with the " Stock Market" collapsing although the ruling party would form the next Government which proves the power of the "MEDIA" in causing mass hysteria and controlling the minds of the average masses in the field of "STOCK MARKET INVESTMENT/SPECULATION". Later in the evening strolled around the vicinity which had a few large dry fruit shops and tasted excellent dates.Language was a problem as locals only speak Tajik or Russian language.Tasted the signature snack samosa at a local shop and liked its taste.Weather seemed erratic and suddenly there was rain and heavy wind which stopped as abruptly as it had started.Returned back to my cosy self contained room which had 4 beds and 2 of us guests, myself and a local Tajik with whom I couldn't converse due to language barrier. The hotel occupied the entire 5 floors of this palatial building with second floor designed in a hostel format , having high ceilings and palatial rooms.Very clean hotel with a large kitchen and staff for maintenance.Travel educates.Sunset is late and after ages had a decent 4 + hrs sleep.
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| At Dusti Square( Friendship Square) at the monument of the founder of the Tajik State Ismail Somoni whose statue was inaugurated on Thursday 9 September 1999. The Statue is 13 meters in height and the crown weighing 10 Kilos is almost of pure gold.The currency of Tajikistan, the "Somoni(TJS)" is named after him as also the highest peak in the Pamir mountains of Tajikistan. |
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| View of the indescribable flower garden in Dusti park also called Friendship Park/Somoni Park .The spiral lights are illuminated at night .Visit the park during day as well as at night to get two different views of Dushanbe's most popular public square. |
Wednesday (5/6/2024) Dushanbe:- As usual was early and after a nice hot water bath was back on bed busy on the internet as also recovering from the after-effects of " JET LAG " travel and " Indian Stock Market" collapse,unbelievable but a fact of life.Dushanbe weather in the morning was excellent, cool but not cold.Breakfast was at 0830 hrs, excellent local Tajikistan breakfast with Tajik Nan, fried eggs,sausage,lemon tea and Tajik pancakes.After breakfast with brief directions from hotel assistant manager Mr Hassan headed out into the street with destination being Dushanbe City centre.After a short walk inquired directions with a young man and he advised me to board the "No 8" taxi and alight at "Dushanbe City Centre".I have now visited almost a majority of the former Russian satellite States which are now Independent countries and always found language a barrier in communication and in Dushanbe in Tajikistan it was the worst as very few whom i approached spoke English.In Dushanbe, private drivers operating on a particular route are unofficial taxi drivers and wave a number in front of the car windscreen and commuters on that particular route can stop the car akin to a "Shared Taxi ride".
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| In 2007 the statue of Lenin was replaced by the statue of Tajik poet Rudaki now called Rudaki park. It was made to honour Rudaki's birthday in 1150 and to emphasize that he was the father of Tajik poetry. It was made by sculptor Vladimir Kozlov and is an exact copy of a monument previously established in Petersburg Smolny Palace. The statue is surrounded by a colourful arc with paintings of stars and the sun.In Iran, Rudaki is acknowledged as the "Founder of New Persian poetry" and in Tajikistan as the "Father of Tajik literature".After the Quran, a book of poems of Tajik Poet Rudaki is the most common treasured possession among Tajik citizens.Some of the World's best blossoming roses can be seen in this garden. |
I was lucky to get "Car No 8" and was the only commuter early morning and enjoyed the drive through the beautiful maintained plush boulevard tree lined streets of Dushanbe.
At 0930 hrs was at Dushanbe city centre and it was a wet morning with a slight drizzle of rain. The "lift charge" was 10 Somoni ,excellent as it was akin to hiring a private drive.
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| 45 meters tall Tajikistan Independence Monument inside Rudaki Park.Golden tower is adorned with a 'Coat of Arms" of Tajikistan. This monument was erected in 2011 in honour of the 20th Anniversary of the Independence of Tajikistan. |
The imposing statue of Ismoil Somoni dominated the city centre vicinity and after alighting the taxi took shelter below the shade of a imposing building. It was a cloudy cool morning and after the drizzle subsided made my way towards Ismail Somoni Statue situated on Dusti Park also known as Friendship Square.There were no locals let alone tourists in the park with just a lone cameraman waiting for a photo opportunity to click some tourists for earning some income. he obliged me by clicking my photo with my camera phone.All my share market notional losses were wiped out seeing the indescribable carpet of flowers on Somoni park grounds.The park fountains were not functioning in the morning and this locale should be visited twice, during day time and at night when the entire vicinity is illuminated.Walking across the statue of Ismoil Somoni came across the entrance to Rudaki Park .Entered the park with its beautiful gardens and viewed the statue of Rudaki who is considered the founder of classical Persian literature.and poetry .Also viewed the World's fourth tallest flag pole although the flag was not hoisted on the pole.From Rudaki park walked upto the "Independence Monument" which has the state emblem on its top.Walking upto the stairs leading to the main halfway platform of "Independence Monument" got a bird's eye view of the "Palace of Nations(Presidential Palace)" which is the official residence of the President of Tajikistan.The view of the snow covered mountains as well as the cool pleasant weather was a real stress reliever.
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| The Palace of the Nation built in 2008 is the official residence of the President of Tajikistan. It has 4 floors and is located on Shirinshoh Shohtemur Street in central Dushanbe. The Presidential Palace is surrounded by Dushanbe Flagpole to the north, Rudaki Park to the east, Independence Monument to the south and the Varzob River to the west.Notice the ice capped mountains in the distance. Indescribable beauty. |
Returning back towards Somoni Park entered the "National Library" of Tajikistan, a imposing building with a spotlessly clean interior.
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| The National Library of Tajikistan was opened on Tuesday March 20, 2012 in Dushanbe with the participation of the President of Tajikistan Emomali Rahmon. The new nine-story building was constructed in the form of an open book and meets modern international standards also by its size is the largest library in the countries of Central Asia. Near the central facade of the building there are 22 busts of famous heroes of the history of the region, scientists and literature of the Tajik people. The library has 25 reading rooms, which have 274 workstations for readers, 3 exhibition halls, for displaying ancient manuscripts and rare books. Galleries for the exhibition of books on branches of science and knowledge and exhibition hall of new literature For mass events, conferences and symposia, the library has 9 rooms (for 1100 seats). The library is equipped with modern technology that allows readers to use the latest information and communication technologies. The library was one of the initiators of the introduction of information technology in the field of reader service. An electronic catalog, an electronic library was created, access to library resources was provided, other innovative projects were implemented that raised service to a whole new level. The microclimate of the building allows readers to feel comfortable on hot summer days. |
Used the escalator and entered the second floor corridor which had large palatial halls and in one of the halls a conference was in progress.On enquiry was guided to a official conversant in English language and thanks to Mr Shaukat that i got a brief description of this massive library.Mr Shaukat was fond of Hindi films with his favourite actors being Shah Rukh Khan,Salman. Khan and Amir.Khan.
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| Landmark modern 21st century " Communication Services Building ". Majority of historic Soviet Era(Pre 1991) buildings are being demolished and replaced by 21st century high rises. |
Thanking Mr Shaukat made my way out of the library building and down the park past the Statue of Ismoil Somoni onto Rudaki Avenue. Decided to walk back to home away from home "Sakho Hotel-Hostel" as the weather was awesome and besides i could do a walking tour of the city.Marveled at the broad clean streets of Downtown Dushanbe with large trees on either side of the road.Spotted some unique one-off beautiful buildings, one of which was the "Accounts Chamber of the Republic of Tajikistan".Walking further along Rudaki Avenue came across "Tajik State Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet( Ayni Opera)" which had a large fountain space facing the iconic building.
Entered the building and as usual language was a hurdle but somehow conversed with the ticket seller and got to know that a Opera was scheduled for today and a Ballet on Saturday 22 June when I would be in Mumbai.
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| Formerly known as Tajik musical theatre the Ayni Opera and Ballet Theater built in 1946 is a historical building named after Tajik poet Sadriddin Ayni and is a classic example of Stalinist architecture. It hosts many performances and plays and the first Tajik ballet was performed here and the culture then started to grow and develop. Later, a new wave of Tajik artists became part the Theater and made it very popular. They participated in Russian and Western classic operas and visited Russia. |
Otherwise would have definitely watched a Ballet performance irrespective of not knowing the language.
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| Dushanbe Tajik Institute of Art and Design. This is a Communist(USSR) era building built in 1934 and one of the oldest in the city. Most Soviet Era buildings are being demolished to build ultra modern skyscrapers. SEE DUSHANBE BEFORE THE PRE 1991 SOVIET ERA BUILDINGS ARE DEMOLISHED |
Remember, the "U.S.S.R" was the home of World Ballet producing a few household name stars who defected to Western Democratic countries. From the Ayni Opera at the end of Rudaki Avenue came across the monument to Sadriddin Ayni installed in 1978 at Sadriddin Ayni park which has a height of 5.8 meters, its area is 57 square meters and it was built by sculptor Gafurdjon Juraev.There are beautiful fountains in the garden and a bed of flowers. Then at the end of the garden a alley leads to the Mausoleum where the grave of the writer Sadriddin Ayni is located , the first academician of the country and here people come to honor his memory.Part of the flower garden was being replanted by women gardeners.Later came across the street side market place, busy with shoppers and purchased half a kilo of pears, excellent and delicious.Lunch was "Tajik Hot-dog", something different to the normal sausage hot dog with a cold drink in a take-away cafeteria named "Hot Dog" that had excellent business.After lunch it was a long walk past the landmark railway station into Sakho Hotel/Hostel.My new room mate was a Afghan national Mr Abdul Khan Akmal who spoke English and Hindi with Amitabh Bachchan being his favourite Hindi actor as also very popular in Afghanistan.One odd numbering system of building floors in Dushanbe is that in all buildings the "Ground Floor" that is universal numbered as "G" is numbered as "First Floor" in all Dushanbe buildings including Sakho Hotel/Hostel.Dinner was the popular " Samosa" at a restaurant near the railway station followed by dates and pears for dessert." Sakho Hotel/ Hostel "seemed very busy with guests arriving and departing as all 5 floors was a hotel/ hostel depending on design and bed arrangements in that particular room.All guests were of Asian origin.In my room we were just two of us Mr Abdul Ali Khan Akmal and self with Afghan origin Abdul Ali Khan Akmal being a excellent linguist knowing all Middle East/Central Asia languages.A/ C was functional and a normal nights sleep.
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| View of Tajikistan Flag from gardens of National Museum of Tajikistan.The Dushanbe Flagpole is a free–standing flagpole located in front of the Palace of Nations and at 165 metres (541 feet) was the tallest flagpole in the world from its completion in 2011 until the 2014 erection of the 171 m (561 ft) Jeddah Flagpole.In 2024 it is now the fourth tallest flagpole in the world. It flies the 30 m × 60 m (98 ft × 197 ft) Flag of Tajikistan weighing 700 kilograms. |
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| Ayni Street in Downtown Dushanbe.Broad tree lined streets and sparklingly clean roads makes Dushanbe akin to any "First World" European city. |
Thursday(6/6/2024) Dushanbe :- After the normal sumptuous breakfast at 0830 hrs got dressed and headed onto M.Nazarsoev street .My agenda for the day was to walk along the "No 8" route to Rudaki avenue and hence get to know prime Dushanbe city.Walking is the only way to get to know a new city or locale and hence most of the World's Capital tourist city's conduct "Walking Tours" within prime locales of that city.very common and popular in European city's.Came across "Europa Supermarket" on Ahmadi Donish Street, a rare signpost in English language and entered the plush shopping mall.Excellent mall and was surprized on seeing premium alcoholic brand drinks on sale .It drizzled a little and thankfully stopped after a short break .
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| Sadriddin Ayni Park which has the mausoleum .This is the main garden having the statue of Sadriddin Ayni as well as a memorial honouring important individuals of the country. A alley from this central garden leads to the mausoleum of Sadriddin Ayni, Tajikistan's National Poet . |
From "Europa Supermarket" walked further downtown and came across a building "Stroy House" which had a "ATM Bank" on the ground floor .Language was in Tajik but thankfully the "ATM operation" mechanism had a choice of language in English. Took the help of a bank employee in operating my travel card and thankfully all's well that ends well.Walking along plush Ayni street came across the plushest buildings, hotels and supermarkets in Dushanbe.Traffic was at its peak , the weather excellent but the walk tiring with no sign of reaching destination Rudaki Avenue.I have visited maximum former Soviet Union satellite countries in Europe and Central Asia and did manage my way around the city's with English language but in Dushanbe i faced my worst handicap with english language.
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| Inside the " National Museum of Tajikistan ".The museum has a total area of 24 000 Sq m, of which over 15 000 Sq m are exhibition halls. It is composed of four exhibition departments A)Department of Natural History,B) Department of Ancient and Medieval History,C)Department of Modern and D) Contemporary History and Department of Fine and Applied Arts |
Walking straight ahead along Ayni street i realized i had overshot my bearings and thankfully the gentleman whom i asked for directions knew English and told me to board a shared "No 8" taxi that would take me to my destination.
Had to retrace my step walking back again and on asking directions with a young man was stunned to know he spoke fluent English.Mr Shamshod from Istanbul was even willing to guide me free of charge which i refused and he guided me to the "No 8" taxi which did have a few passengers.
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| Skeleton of a man found in Farkhor dating back to III-II millennium BCE |
Again language was a hurdle and a young lady passenger knowing English came to my rescue and guided me perfectly to the locales of National Museum of Tajikistan and Kokhi Navruz Palace.For the first time i got to see the Varzob river on which the city of Dushanbe is situated as our car crossed the bridge over the narrow river. My first destination was National Museum of Tajikistan and thanking the lady and driver alighted the car after paying the fare of 10 Somoni(TJS). On entering the vast museum complex which had a few historical statues on the grounds was immediately attracted to the indescribably beautiful rose gardens .
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| RECLINING BUDDHA :- The most prominent exhibit in National Gallery of Tajikistan.This replica of 'Reclining Buddha' is around 13 meters long and 5.5 tonnes in weight.This historical piece was excavated by Soviet archaeologists in 1996, from a Buddhist monastery complex in Ajina Teppa in southern Tajikistan.Ajina Teppa was an important location on the ancient Silk Route connecting China with Europe and central Asia with the Indian seaports. |
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| View of National Museum of Tajikistan with its unique Elliptical Roof as seen from the edge of the artificial lake .A few historical sculptures are installed at various points in the garden of the National museum. |
The museum itself is unique in design having a elliptical roof and giant atrium. The sight of the Tajikistan flag fluttering on the 4th tallest flagpole in the World was amazing in the bright sunshine..Made my way past the rows of beautiful blooming roses onto the artificial lake waterfront.The Tajikistan flagpole was on the opposite side of the National museum of Tajikistan situated on Rudaki Avenue in front of the "Palace of the Nations" building.There was a fountain at a distance from the flagpole in the lake spurting jets of water which was a sight to behold on a bright sunny day.Relaxed with a coca cola along the waterfront under a restaurant tent and later made my way to the entrance of the museum.Entrance price was 35 Somoni( TJS) .The museum is a huge complex having a total area of 1,500 Sq M of exhibition halls divided into 3 sections, A) Natural History, B) Archaeology and C) Fine Arts.Having done my homework inquired with the reception regarding the exhibits of the reclining Buddha and the skeleton remains of a Queen which are considered prime archaeological exhibits.Was guided to the section of the Buddha exhibits and viewed the replica of the reconstructed image of the 7th century Ajene-Tepe Buddhist Monastery .Huge halls with numerous exhibits, mostly replica's.
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| Giant artificial lake with a small beach for swimming that forms the inner boundary of National Museum and Novruz Palace .The Tajikistan flagpole can be seen in the distance on the opposite side of this artificial lake. |
From the ground floor went to the basement floor that housed the Natural history collection of stuffed animals and birds inhabiting the region.Using the escalator visited the 2nd floor and thankfully all the exhibits had a english subtitle to the description .Saw original written versions of the Quran of different era's as also a exhibit on origins of Zoroastrianism.Had to walk to the third floor as the escalators were not functioning and came across paper paintings by young children of Tajikistan on the topic of conservation of water.The 3rd floor had Soviet era exhibits and paintings of various era's.Finally having visited all the exhibition halls made my way back to ground floor and out of this huge palatial museum.
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| View of Nowruz Palace as seen from the road.On the other side of Navruz Palace is the artificial lake.The complex building construction began in 2009 and was completed in September 2014. From the very beginning the complex “Kokhi Navruz” was planned as the biggest national tea house in Central Asia, but in the process of building it turned into a real museum of national handicrafts of Tajik people. The complex consists of 5 floors and about 40,000 Sqm are the handiwork of Tajik craftsmen.The complex has seven lifts, including panorama elevator, bowling, billiard, 3D movie theater, night club, art gallery and a small national teahouse.The most ultra luxurious side of the building is its halls to which entry is restricted. |
It was a long walk to Kokhi Navruz palace building ,once called the biggest tea house in the World.
There is a small amusement centre near the entrance to the main complex and young children were swimming in the main made lake.As for me i was hungry and wandering aimlessly around the sprawling Kokhi Navruz complex stumbled upon the restaurant situated on the ground floor of this palatial palace building.The young steward guided me to choosing the menu and for the first time tasted authentic Tajikistan food.After ages had a sumptuous lunch as it is not daily a tourist gets a chance to dine in what would have been the largest "Tea House" in the World before it was converted to a entertainment and convention centre.Soup was "Kohi Navruz",a soup named after the building followed by a plate full of sheep meat with potato chips called "Fistaski" in Tajik.The entire meal which is normally meant for 2 people was consumed without pangs of overeating and the same washed down with "Tajik Coca Cola" instead of beer.Ahoy ! After lunch made my way up the stairs of the palatial building and on the first floor came across the largest pool hall i have seen in my lifetime.the hall was absolutely empty with me being the only non-pool player as a tourist.Its not everyday a tourist gets to pose for a photo shoot in one of the largest pool halls and for posterity the manager obliged me by clicking a photo playing pool.Shah Rukh Khan are you reading this. Ahoy !
From the expansive "POOL HALL" made my way to the opposite wing of the building and was surprised to see a theatre screening Russian films .From the first floor walked to the 2nd floor and was surprised to see a large crowd of youth playing "Bowling " games.From the "Bowling Games" hall made my exit and crossed the road through the long spacious underground subway and entered the palatial " Pamir stadium" complex also called " Tajikistan Central Stadium" which had a large tennis court at its entrance.There was advertisement of a "Pakistan V/S Tajikistan " F.I.F.A World cup qualifying match.Mostly football matches are played at this stadium.From the stadium complex walked further down and came across Dushanbe Zoo which would be visited before i left the city.The "Nomad" was finally getting into the local travel mode and barring being the fact that although illiterate in Russian and Tajik language was very much at ease in Dushanbe.
As usual boarded the "No 8" private taxi and alighted before the underground subway at Ahmadi Donish street and finally the short distance to "Sakho Hotel-Hostel" on Nazarshoev Street. Room-mate Mr Abdul Ali khan Akmal seemed to have left the hotel and i had the entire room to myself.A normal four hours sleep.
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| Game of Billiards or pool is not my cup of tea but it is not everyday that a tourist gets to be all alone in the largest Billiards/Pool hall i have seen in my lifetime.A "Photo-Shoot" in the "Billiards/Pool" hall of Kokhi Navruz Palace. The size,splendour and ambiance of this Billiards/Pool hall was fit for Royalty Sport . |
There is a small amusement centre near the entrance to the main complex and young children were swimming in the main made lake.As for me i was hungry and wandering aimlessly around the sprawling Kokhi Navruz complex stumbled upon the restaurant situated on the ground floor of this palatial palace building.The young steward guided me to choosing the menu and for the first time tasted authentic Tajikistan food.After ages had a sumptuous lunch as it is not daily a tourist gets a chance to dine in what would have been the largest "Tea House" in the World before it was converted to a entertainment and convention centre.Soup was "Kohi Navruz",a soup named after the building followed by a plate full of sheep meat with potato chips called "Fistaski" in Tajik.The entire meal which is normally meant for 2 people was consumed without pangs of overeating and the same washed down with "Tajik Coca Cola" instead of beer.Ahoy ! After lunch made my way up the stairs of the palatial building and on the first floor came across the largest pool hall i have seen in my lifetime.the hall was absolutely empty with me being the only non-pool player as a tourist.Its not everyday a tourist gets to pose for a photo shoot in one of the largest pool halls and for posterity the manager obliged me by clicking a photo playing pool.Shah Rukh Khan are you reading this. Ahoy !
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| "BOWLING" hall inside Navruz Palace. |
From the expansive "POOL HALL" made my way to the opposite wing of the building and was surprised to see a theatre screening Russian films .From the first floor walked to the 2nd floor and was surprised to see a large crowd of youth playing "Bowling " games.From the "Bowling Games" hall made my exit and crossed the road through the long spacious underground subway and entered the palatial " Pamir stadium" complex also called " Tajikistan Central Stadium" which had a large tennis court at its entrance.There was advertisement of a "Pakistan V/S Tajikistan " F.I.F.A World cup qualifying match.Mostly football matches are played at this stadium.From the stadium complex walked further down and came across Dushanbe Zoo which would be visited before i left the city.The "Nomad" was finally getting into the local travel mode and barring being the fact that although illiterate in Russian and Tajik language was very much at ease in Dushanbe.
As usual boarded the "No 8" private taxi and alighted before the underground subway at Ahmadi Donish street and finally the short distance to "Sakho Hotel-Hostel" on Nazarshoev Street. Room-mate Mr Abdul Ali khan Akmal seemed to have left the hotel and i had the entire room to myself.A normal four hours sleep.
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| Istiklol Tower situated inside Istiklol Square complex.The 121-meter height of “Istiklol” tower is symbolic, that is, the lower part of the complex is 30 meters, a symbol of the 30th anniversary of State Independence, and the upper part 91 meters personifies the gaining of Independence in 1991.The total area of the symbolic “Istiklol” complex is 11,900 square meters.At the top of the complex is an 8-meter crown made of titanium. In the "Independence" symbol the crown embodies the symbol of statehood, independence, state property and civilization, and knowledge of the history of the ancient Tajik people. The base of the complex embodies an octagonal pyramid and consists of 7 entrances. |
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| Main entrance in Dushanbe Zoo in 2024. More of a children's playground than a zoo. The worst zoo i have seen in my travels to zoo's across the Globe including my home country India. |
Friday(7/6/2024) Dushanbe :- As usual after normal morning routines busy on the laptop.Wished the Goldfish " Nemo" good morning and realized that aquarium fish akin to pet birds and animals have a routine behaviour.Breakfast was as usual at 0830 and different crowd with the large group of Pakistani guests having left the hostel."Sakho Hotel-Hostel" has "Bunk bed accomodation" akin to hostels as well as single 4-beds to a room with self contained toilets and air-condition akin to my room and hence the dual name "Sakho Hotel-Hostel".All residents were of Asian origin.After breakfast got dressed and headed out of the hotel in the familiar direction and boarded the usual "No 8" private taxi.
Alighted the taxi outside Dushanbe zoo on Ismail Solomi street.
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| View of the 11,900 SQ M Istiklol Complex inaugurated on Thursday 8 September 2022. |
After paying the entrance fee entered the tiny zoo situated next to Pamir Stadium(Tajikistan Central Stadium) and was aghast seeing the pathetic condition of the enclosures.The Dushanbe Zoo was founded in 1960 and was considered one of the best zoo's in the Soviet Union.Post Independence in 1991 and the civil war in Tajikistan lasting until 1997 saw the drastic deterioration of the zoo.This zoo was being used more as a children's playground and picnic food centre rather than a zoo.The only saving grace was that it had a good collection of vultures and Bactrian camels.Among carnivore species was surprised to see dogs in tiny cages rather than a "Big wild cat".Spotted fox cubs in a tiny enclosure of which one of the cubs was a albino.Was really sad seeing this zoo and hoping this zoo improves in the future for if it gets bad i am afraid it would cease to exist as a zoo and could be converted to a park.From the zoo walked back along Ismoil Solomi street and on sighting Istiklol Tower took the bifurcation from the main road leading to this iconic landmark of Dushanbe. Istiklol(Independence) Square was opened in 2022 in honour of the 31st anniversary of .Tajikistan Independence in 1991.At 1145 hrs in the morning i was the only tourist to enter Istiklol Tower building where security check was akin to airport security. After the security check a young employee Ms Fatima issued me the ticket costing 70 Somoni and explained me the tour procedure of the tower.She then guided me on the tour beginning from the ground floor and later to the second floor which housed the museum.
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| A view of exhibits inside Istiqlol Tower museum |
As mentioned i was the only visitor in the entire museum and most of the exhibits also had descriptive titles in English language.After the tour of the museum on the second floor boarded the lift to the 14th floor of Istiklol Tower.On alighting the lift entered the circular viewing terrace of the tower which gave a bird's eye view of entire Dushanbe as far as the eye could see.Dushanbe doesnt have much skyscrapers and Istiklol Tower was situated in a isolated section which didn't have any tall buildings. It was akin to being on the top most viewing platform of the tallest building in the World, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.With my binoculars got to see locales that would not be possible by road journey.Got to see the Tajikistan University campus and aquatics entertainment park.Most mesmerizing were the snow covered mountain peaks in the distance.
It was a bright sunny day and the first time since my arrival in the city there was no morning drizzle of rain.
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| Viewing the exhibits inside Istiklol Tower museum. |
The rose petals in the gardens was also drying up rapidly indicating the arrival of peak summer in Dushanbe.After fulfilling my bird's eye view tour of Dushanbe from the 14th floor of Istiklol Tower made my way back to ground level.It was a long walk in the hot sun to the main road and further down past "Great Wall of Tajik Writers" to the plush restaurant "THM" for lunch.Lunch was a Tajikistan dish, rice with some kebab, delicious.After lunch visited the "Great Wall of Tajik Writers" situated just next to "THM" restaurant and the National Museum.The “Great Wall of Tajik Writers ” is the facade of the Writers' Union building which is home to an association of novelists, poets, playwrights, and other writers. The large wall is carved with nine niches containing eleven life-size statues of famous Tajik writers, a tribute to Tajikistan's Persian and Soviet history.Later crossed the road and waited at the bus stop to stop the now familiar "No 8" private taxi. In the meantime a Marshrutka with "No 8" stopped at the bus stop and boarded the packed signature public taxi that is a famous mode of common public transport in all the Republics of the former Soviet Union.It was packed and reminded me of boarding the Mumbai local train during peak office hours.The "No 8" Marshrutka took a different route compared to the private shared taxi and confused me but luckily my presence of mind made me alight at the right spot next to landmark "Stroy House" building.
On my way to the hotel purchased a ice cream cone from the open air restaurant which was excellent .Back at "Sakho Hotel-Hostel" got busy on my laptop and later in the evening room-mate Mr Abdul Ali arrived from his hometown of Khujand in Tajikistan where his family lived and occupied his bed.So two of us in this self contained palatial A/C accommodation. Young Pakistani Mr Qamar was also still in Dushanbe and so in a distant foreign land Hindi and not English ,Tajik or Russian was the " Link language".
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| GREAT WALL OF TAJIK WRITERS :-The “Wall” is the facade of the Writers' Union building, home to an association of novelists, poets, playwrights, and other writers. The large wall is carved with nine niches containing eleven life-size statues of famous Tajik writers, a tribute to Tajikistan's Persian and Soviet history. |
Travel educates.Dinner was " Shashlik" with bread and Tajik lemon tea at a large local restaurant in close proximity to Sakho Hotel.Dushanbe has mosquito menace and hence windows can't be kept open at night and thankfully our hotel room A/C was functioning.
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| HISOR FORTRESS :- Hisor Fortress is located on a hill along the Khanaka River, in Hisor Valley of Tajikistan.Historical records point at a fort in Hisor as far back as 1000 BC. More recent records of the fort relate to the time when Cyrus the Great founded the first Persian Empire (around 550 BC).The strategic position made the fortress in the past into an ideal place to ward off incoming enemies and protect caravans passing the Silk Road.During its history it is said to have been attacked, destroyed and rebuilt almost 21 times and hence the modern structure of the fortress is akin to a Disneyworld Fortress,just for tourism.The oldest surviving part of Hisor Fortress is the arched gate, which is probably from around the year 500 AD. NOTE :- The present restoration of Hisor Fortress as seen today is a restoration model of the 18th century Fort that was destroyed by the Russian Red Army. |
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| Arrival at Zarnisor from Dushanbe by "Marshrutka No 15".Thanks to this driver of "Marshrutka 15"that i got to understand the sequence of vehicles to change to reach Hisor Fortress.English language is almost alien to the average common Tajik citizen |
Saturday(8/6/2024) Dushanbe :- As a early bird did my google search homework on travelling solo to Hisor Fortress and researching through various bloggers got the approximate travel route details.Took "Screen Shots" of the important travel route details and bus/marshrutka numbers, with bus or Marshrutka "No 8" being my vehicle for travel. Took the gamble of travelling all alone in a city where English language is almost as alien as Russian language is in India.After breakfast at 0945 hrs headed out of the hotel and on spotting two well dressed gentleman talking near the pavement approached then for directions to board the bus/marshrutka to "ZARNISOR" showing them the "Google map screenshot". Zarnisor is the main junction to board the connecting shared taxi to Hisor .To my goodluck the gentleman understood english and told me to board the "No 15 " marshrutka which just happened to stop ahead of us.Thanking him although confused since my travel study mentioned "No 8" bus/marshrutka and not "No 15" i immediately boarded the packed Marshrutka and again language was a hurdle.Luckily the driver did understand my destination point as also a lady passenger and told me in sign language that they would inform me on arrival at Zarnisor .
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| Hisor Town Bazar :-From Zarnisor boarded a "Shared Taxi" costing 10 Somoni and was dropped here in Hisor Town. From Hisor Bazar hired a private Mercedes taxi costing 20 Somoni and reached destination Hisor Fortress |
It would be a very long road journey as the distance between Hisor Fortress and "Sakho Hotel/Hostel" on Nazarshoev Street was approximately 29 Km.During the long road drive was surprised to see "Dushanbe International School" signboard , a clear indication that English was being taught in elite schools of Tajikistan.Finally at 0920 hrs reached Zarnisor and the driver told me to board a shared taxi to Hisor Town .Thanking him as well as taking a photo with him boarded the shared taxi to Hisor Bazaar at the normal fixed rate of 10 Somoni.The route to Hisor valley was through the Tajikistan countryside which at places was lush green with cultivation.
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| From the base of Hisor Fort it was a strenuous walk up the stairs to the summit of the Fortress in the hot Sun. |
Also spotted a odd large rugby shaped building which was supposed to be one of the largest tea houses in Kyrgyzstan .At 0945 hrs reached Hisor Bazaar which had numerous shops .From Hisor Bazaar boarded a Mercedes Benz taxi with the fare to Hisor Fortress amounting to 20 Somoni as i was the lone passenger.Finally at 1000 hrs reached the parking lot of Hisor Fortress and as usual it seemed i was one of the earliest tourists.Hisor Fortress is situated on a hill as are all fortresses and the present fortress was a rebuilt replica of the original fortress.Entrance ticket to the Fortress was 10 Somoni and it was a long uphill walk on stairs to the top of the Disney World type rebuilt Fortress.The Sun was shining bright but the weather extremely cool and pleasant,deceptive weather that can get a person sunburnt.I was one of the first tourists to reach the summit of the Fortress which was flying the Tajikistan flag and was surprised to see the main entrance to the top of the fort closed for public viewing.Later a lady with a child arrived followed by some young children and the view of the Tajikistan countryside and mountains from this Fortress was amazing.
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| Finally after walking up the stairs finally on the summit of Hisor Fortress. View of the surrounding countryside was amazing on a bright sunny day. |
Strolled around the circumference of the Fortress admiring the "Bird's Eye Views" from various directions and later was thrilled to see a professional Mongoloid race tourist with professional zoom lens busy shooting various photographs of the countryside from the Fortress hill.After satisfying myself observing various views from the top made my descent down the flight of stairs to the base of the Fortress.There were a few souvenir/handicraft shops and visited a shop selling paintings which the owner claimed were original Tajik paintings from various era's including the Soviet Union era.The paintings looked old and authentic and were expensive.On the other side of the entrance to the fortress is the open countryside grounds where young children with horses were offering horse rides to tourists .Took a photo-shoot on a beautiful well built mounted horse as the afternoon heat was too oppressive for a short ride on the hard ground and besides as a "Solo" rider i didn't want to risk riding without a helmet.I marvelled at the horse handling skills of the young kid who gave me his horse for the photo-shoot as well as the other young horse handlers' . The odd one among the horses was a donkey which was also well ridden by its young human handler.
The horseback sport of "Buzkashi" normally occasionally seen in films is celebrated in Hisor valley during the Navruz festival which is in the month of March.
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| Shops inside Hisor Fortress selling handicrafts and art paintings ,The gate seen at the extreme Northern end of the fort leads to a ground where horse riding is available for tourists. |
If in Bishkek between 21 March and 26 March during which Navruz is celebrated then don't miss the "Buzkashi" contest .No wonder these young kids are natural born horse riders.There are two Madrasa's in Hisor Fort Complex named Old and New Madrasa Made my exit from the Fortress and visited the new "Madrasa" which had shops inside selling handicrafts.The Old Madrasa houses the Sagin mosque(Stone Mosque). Having visited Uzbekistan had having seen the best of reconstructed "Madrasa's" in Samarkand the "Madrasa" in Hisor fort was a lesser model of the same.Boarded a taxi at the nominal rate of 20 somoni and headed back to Hisor Bazar catching the connecting shared taxi to Zarnisor bus/taxi stand. On arrival at Zarnisor saw a "No 8" bus parked alongside the bus -stop and boarded the plush bus hoping the driver would accept money as payment and not only prepaid smart cards as i had read during my travel study.Was relieved when the driver accepted cash as ticket fare and made myself comfortable in the plush A/C bus.As the bus made its way towards Dushanbe city noticed that most passengers in the bus seemed from upper income working class group,well dressed, some in suits unlike marshrutka passengers who seemed more from the lower income working class.Of course, looks can be deceptive and never judge a book by its cover.
Finally on sighting my area location land bearing "Stroy House" alighted the bus and after purchasing a ice-cream cone at the usual take-away snack restaurant walked the normal familiar route to the hotel.
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| Entrance to Old Madrasa complex facing Hisor Fort which also houses the Sangin Mosque(Stone Mosque) distinctly visible with its dome. |
I was hungry and in search of a restaurant and while nearing my hotel suddenly got the strong whiff of "Shashlik Barbeque".Noticed a cook barbequing meat sticks outside a closed restaurant surprised that having passed this way a few times never realized a restaurant existed.At 1345 hrs lunch at this local Dushanbe restaurant specializing in "Shashlik" was 2 sticks of Shashlik with bread and coca cola.If touring any Central Asian city and a non-vegetarian then tasting or relishing Shashlik is mandatory After a sumptuous lunch walked the short distance to "Sakho Hotel-Hotel". Relaxed on the Internet and later in the evening room- mate Abdul.Ali.Khan.Akmal and self went for dinner at the familiar restaurant down the street .Cost of living is not very expensive in Dushanbe and quality of food in restaurants is excellent. On returning to the hotel receptionist Mr Hasan confirmed my next day's group tour to Iskanderkul lake with the reporting point being "Ayni Opera House" parking lot.
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| At Iskanderkul lake with its indescribable azure beauty on a bright Sunny morning.Iskanderkul is a mountain lake of glacial origin in Tajikistan's Sughd Province. It lies at an altitude of 2,195 metres (7,201 ft) on the northern slopes of the Gissar Range in the Fann Mountains. Triangular in shape, it has a surface area of 3.4 square kilometres (1.3 sq mi) and is up to 72 metres (236 ft) deep. Formed by a landslide that blocks the Saratogh river, the outflow of the lake is called the Iskander Darya, which joins the Yaghnob River to form the Fan Darya, a major left tributary of the Zeravshan River.The lake takes its name from Alexander the Great's passage in Tajikistan: Iskander is the Persian pronunciation of Alexander, and kul means lake in many Turkic languages. The colour of the lake changes according to the weather and we were lucky in the morning to get this perfect picture postcard photo of the lake.On the Southern side of the lake is the holiday Dacha of the President of Tajikistan. |
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| Group Tour on Volkswagen Marshrutka "5555TT01" to Iskanderkul lake.A 134 Km road travel through mountainous roads and tunnels. |
Sunday (9/6/2024) Dushanbe :- In Dushanbe daylight is at approximately 0420 hrs and twilight at 2000 hrs.Long hours of sunlight during summer.At 0515 hrs left Sakho Hotel and was lucky to get a shared taxi just outside the hotel building.It was a early morning drive to Ayni Opera house , the meeting point to board the Marshrutka to Iskanderkul lake .On reaching at 0530 hrs found the entire Ayni Opera house ground empty and realized i was very early.Walked towards the restaurants and found a restaurant named "Southern Fried Chicken" open and breakfast was a small burger with coffee.At the restaurant for the first time came across a local Tajik Mr Siyovushi ,a trader in branded luxury watches and women's handbags who spoke English language fluently. Learnt a little about luxury watches from Mr Siyovushi. After a quick breakfast walked back to the landmark fountain of Ayni Opera house and didn't spot a soul let alone a group of tourists.A deep fear that the trip was cancelled began rotating in my mind and later at past 0600 hrs a Volkswagen Marshrutka with its unique jackpot number "5555TT01" arrived at the parking lot and on inquiry with the driver Mr Jeniy was relieved to know that this vehicle would take our group to Iskanderkul lake.Later the tour manager arrived and the charges were 220 Somoni which included lunch.
There were 3 different tour groups that were to take-off from Ayni Opera house parking lot and tours to Iskanderkul lake are conducted mostly only on Sunday's.
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| View of the ice on Fann Mountain range from the top of the mountain highway at 3400 m(11,154ft) just before entering the 5 Km long "Anzob Tunnel" on the drive to Iskanderkul lake |
Finally the entire crowd of young Tajik tourists arrived and at 0700 hrs our housefull marshrutka began its long 134 Km drive along the M34 highway to Iskanderkul lake.I was sitting next to driver Mr Jeniy while the Tajik guide was seated along with the rest of the local tourists in the main seating accommodation. We were a total of 16 on the mini-bus including driver Jeniy.As we drove our guide was busy explaining various aspects to the very young Tajik tourists, a language in which i was illiterate. During the drive made videos through the windscreen ,a advantage of front sitting in any vehicle.Passed alongside Varzob valley which is popular holiday resort for local Tajik's as it is only 22 Km from Dushanbe.There are cute small restaurants alongside the banks of the Varzob river and trekking is popular in Varzob valley.The mountain highway was excellent and the journey smooth on a bright Sunday morning.There was a main toll both and from there it was a ascent through various small tunnels..As we climbed higher up the mountains got to see the ice covered peaks of a few mountains of the Fann Mountain range.At 0830 hrs at a height of 3400 m(11,154 ft) we stopped at a view-point on the top of the highway to admire the Fann mountain scenery and click photos before entering the dreaded "Anzob Tunnel".
A indescribably beautiful sight but since i didn't know either Tajik or Russian languages couldn't get to know the finer points of the mountain range from our young guide who was busy explaining to the youth tourists.
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| View of Iskanderkul lake with its lake side houses and flow of the lake down stream into Iskander Darya . |
Finally after the brief halt drove into the 5.04 Km long "Anzob Tunnel" also infamous as the "Tunnel of Death" as numerous deaths have taken place inside this long dark endless tunnel that has very poor ventilation and lack of lights.After crossing the tunnel we began our descent down the mountain. The road got bad as we progressed and at 1000 hrs sighted Iskanderkul lake from a distance as we descended down the mountain.Finally at 1005 hrs we arrived at the main bifurcation bridge of Iskanderkul lake and the lake seemed artificial as there was not even a ripple on its still water.
At the road bridge the lake flows into a stream called the Iskander Darya that leads to join the Yaghnob river.After a brief halt at this juncture where we strolled around the locale and used the toilets .
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| Iskanderkul lake emptying into Iskander Darya which joins the Yaghnob River to form the Fann Darya. Iskanderkul Lake is formed entirely by drainage of Glacier snow and ice |
Next our guide collected all of us in a group and we began our trek to to "Fann Niagara Falls" of Tajikistan.We began the long trek from the base of Iskanderkul lake at 1020 hrs in the hot Sun and cool breeze. The youngsters found the trek normal but as for me found the uneven mountainside ground dangerous in places where there were abrupt ascents or descents as chances of slipping and falling was high.I though i had retired from serious trekking years ago and now here i was trekking with youngsters more than half my age .Most importantly i had to keep pace with them otherwise would be lost as this was not a normal routine forest path trek.
Finally after half an hour of trekking at 1050 hrs the laggard reached "Fann Niagara Water Falls" which had a short height 36 meters height drop but gushed with tremendous pressure and volume.
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| View of "SNAKE LAKE" from a elevation on a hill along the mountainside.Located next to Iskanderkul lake .Got the name "Snake Lake" due to presence of snakes in the vicinity as the temperature is warmer in the surroundings of Snake lake. |
As usual the young crowd went ecstatic with their smartphone cameras clicking photos at various angles and one or two daredevils climbing up a high boulder for that unique one-off photo.From "Fann Mountain Niagara Falls" our next destination was the trek to "Snake Lake" .It was the same return back to where we began the start of our trek to "Fann Mountain Niagara Falls" but with a slight deviation to the north of the lake. We had to pass alongside "Iskanderkul lake from a high elevation and got the best photo's and views of the lake from this particular spot during our trek.Finally at 1150 hrs reached the locale of "Snake Lake" which is a tiny insignificant lake made famous due to the excessive presence of snakes in the vicinity of the lake during summer months.After the normal usual photo shoots trekked our way back down the mountainside to "Iskanderkul holiday resort ", the main tourism resort in Iskanderkul.There are small studio type huts for overnight stays for tourists in this resort as also a large dining hall for meals as well as ample parking area.Two other tour group Marshrutka's in the parking lot meaning it would be "House-Full" at the palatial dining table of the resort.
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| Local Tajik lunch at Iskanderkul Lake Resort. Travel Acquaintance's Mr Paul from Switzerland and Mr Noorallah from Iran. We got acquainted as we were the only tourists speaking English language among the group of travellers. |
Lunch was Tajik local cuisine which was initially Shoorbat(soup) served in a large cup with a single chunk of meat.This was followed by "Osh Pulao(rice with meat)" , a prime dish in Tajik cuisine.At the dining table picked up a casual conversation with young co-tourists Mr Paul from Switzerland and Mr Noorallah from Iran.Mr Paul was on a one year project assignment in Tajikistan while Mr Noorallah was employed in Tajikistan as a engineer.We were given free time upto 1500 hrs for individual sightseeing of Iskanderkul Lake resort vicinity and the tourist resort.The weather changed abruptly as is common in any mountainous region and from bright hot sunshine it suddenly began to drizzle. As for me the "Fann Niagara Waterfall Trek" had sapped my energy at my young age and unless camping overnight with a group there was nothing else to do at Iskanderkul lake but admire the beauty of nature. Just strolled along the large cabin hut estate of the resort and later watched some guests play table tennis and cards.There was a continuous drizzle and we were lucky to do our sightseeing and trekking in hot bright sunshine.Finally at 1500 hrs we all assembled at our Marshrutka but had to wait a little longer as the aft wheel tyre was punctured and had to be changed by driver Jeniy.
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| View of Giant cave entrance and flow of " 5 Springs" stream into Iskanderkul lake. |
The rain drizzle had stopped and after the change of tyre we drove along the circumference of the lake and stopped at "Five Springs" locale where water generated by springs from the mountain formed a stream which emptied into Iskanderkul lake.Followed the trail of the spring that led to a large huge cave that was also another tourist attraction on the "Iskanderkul packaged tour" circuit.After the " Cave Tour" we all boarded our vehicle and began our 134 Km journey back to Dushanbe.Just as we began our drive along the circumferential road of Iskanderkul lake driver Mr Jeniy suddenly stopped the vehicle and told us to get down as we had a second puncture.Lightning did strike us twice !Luckily the puncture happened in close proximity to the resort and driver Mr Jniy dialled for a spare tyre and soon a vehicle arrived and akin to a "Formula 1" racing circuit mechanic he quickly changed the tyre and at 1600 hrs we finally began our road trip to base Dushanbe.The weather had cleared and the sky was bright again as we began our homeward journey.On the return trip we stopped for the normal photo-shoot before entering the infamous and mysterious "Anzob Tunnel". After the photo-shoot it was a non-stop drive to Dushanbe.Came across shepherds with their sheep and donkey's.Nearing Dushanbe Mr Jeniy stopped the vehicle at a "Car Wash/Petrol Pump" depot and he himself jet washed the entire car with us passengers sitting comfortably inside the vehicle.
Was amazed at the mechanical maintenance of this all-purpose vehicle where none of the door window panes leaked otherwise we passengers would have had a water-wash along with the vehicle.
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| End of the "Anzob Tunnel" .A photo after passing through this 5 Km long dark tunnel of suspense and finally on way home to Dushanbe from Iskanderkul Lake. |
Finally at 1905 hrs reached "Ayni Opera ", end of a memorable natural sightseeing tour and a unforgettable dangerous road trip that included surviving two punctured tyres.what is life without risks ? As usual stopped a "No 8" taxi and alighted next to landmark " Europa Supermarket ".Noticed a lavishly decorated restaurant named " OK Bar Restaurant "in English language situated next to Europa Supermarket and on entering and inquiring was surprised to know it was a high class "Night club/Bar" where entrance with sports shorts was not allowed .Dinner was at the same Tajik eatery, rice/curry with curd.Sunday and not Friday is a public holiday in Tajikistan. Although a Muslim majority country Tajikistan is not a Islamic Republic but a normal Republic of Tajikistan. Co-Roommate Mr Abdul Ali Aknan had purchased some plums which have a different taste compared to normal plums.
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| 21st Century Dushanbe. A view of the plush modern skyscrapers on plush Ayni Avenue that replaced the old Soviet buildings post Independence in 1991.During the Soviet era the tallest building in Dushanbe was maximum 9-12 stories.Plush 5-star Hilton Hotel and large shopping malls are situated on Ayni Avenue. |
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| Normal street life and road side shopping in Dushanbe.Street side hawkers and fruit ,vegetable sellers on carts. |
Monday(10/6/2024) Dushanbe :- Past midnight our room had two new guests and so was "Housefull" with all the four beds occupied. Back to boarding school living at my young age. Ahoy. Today was rest day as i had explored the maximum tour sites within the tourist circuit of Dushanbe. Gave the cook my clothes for washing with the charges being 30 Somoni for a bundle of clothes and relaxed on my laptop after breakfast.Later just strolled in the plush vicinity road of " Stroy House " building and was surprised to discover a music shop selling all types of basic musical instruments. Saw a unique building designed like a church with small spires and on inquiry was told it was a children's school.Downtown and office locales of Dushanbe resemble any First World city with clean roads and tall buildings besides all the gardens in Dushanbe are poster card models of the ideal garden." Sakho Hotel- Hostel" my residence was well maintained akin to a "3-Star" hotel with daily cleaning staff and excellent breakfast.The cooks and cleaners were all women and observed the same in most public parks where sweepers and gardeners were mostly women.
The two overnight guests left the hotel in the morning and in the evening a elderly Tajik gentleman arrived followed by another young Tajik guest and so on my last night in " Sakho Hotel- Hostel" we would be four guests in a room.Housefull !
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| Last dinner in Dushanbe. "Shashlik" at a outdoor local Tajik restaurant near "Sakho Hotel-Hostel" on M.Nazarshoev Street. |
In the evening visited plush " OK Bar and Restaurant " situated on Ahmadi Donish Street, walking distance from " Sakho Hotel-Hostel ".Being a week day the plush 5-star restaurant was empty with me being the lone customer.Sat down at the bar and sipped a " Twist" cocktail.The Steward gave me a tour of the underground Karaoke lounge of the restaurant which had a glass enclosed "Cigar Humidor room' " as well as a "Wine Cellar" resembling the private collection of a billionaire.I understood the definition of living like a Czar. Took a few photographs and also did dance for the camera as it is not daily a person visits a ultra plush nightclub in a foreign country.Dinner was at two different local restaurants in the vicinity.
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| On a rainy morning outside Manas International Airport. Arrival in Country No 99 on my list of Countries visited , Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan. |
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| V.I.P Lounge in Dushanbe Airport Complex. |
Tuesday(11/6/2024)Departure Dushanbe and arrival Bishkek :- As a nomadic traveller you get attached to any hostel/ hotel where you stay the longest and same was my feeling on leaving " Nemo" the resident Goldfish of the hotel .Would miss the daily excellent breakfast, table atmosphere,staff and a few long stay guests.Boarded a taxi at the taxi stand and at 10 Som it was a short drive to the airport which is walking distance from Hotel Sakho.Was early and after entering the airport,one of the shabbiest International airports during my travels made myself comfortable on a chair.Breakfast was sausages,coke and Tajik pancakes purchased from vendors.
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| At Dushanbe International Airport in Duty Free Shopping lounge.Not modeling for a liquor brand but feeling the weight of a 3 liter "Red Label" whisky bottle.RESPONSIBLE DRINKING PLEASE ! |
Got my excess Somoni currency changed back to Euro's and at 0800 hrs did my check-in with Uzbekistan Airways,receiving both my air tickets,present as well as transit ticket from Tashkent to Bishkek. . After the final immigration and security check entered the departure lounge that had a small duty free zone,a miniscule airport.Waiting for departure overheard a gentleman talking in Hindi language with his travel partner and so struck a conversation with Col Mr Ashish. Raisinghani and met a group of serving as well as retired Indian army officers on a group biking tour of a few Central Asian city's. Col Mr Ashish.Raisinghani was the tour group leader and also had a brief talk with Col Mr Sandeep.Sharma,both from Delhi.One of the rider's was from Mumbai and had a long talk with Corporate executive Mr Nahush.Mohanty who retired prematurely from the Indian army after 5 years service and further after completion of his M.B.A was into the Corporate business World. They were on their way to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan for continuation of their off-road motorcycling expedition on hired "BMW Motorcycles"that began in Tajikistan.
Departure of Uzbekistan Airways ( Flight HY 718) was at 1045 hrs and it was a short one hour flight to Tashkent.
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| Excellent and beautiful broad roads with oak trees lining the highway on the countryside drive from Manas International airport to Bishkek city centre. Bishkek City centre is approximately 31 Km from Manas International Airport and faced a major traffic jam once entering the city limits.. |
On arrival at Tashkent made my way to the transfer zone and after the normal formalities was in the palatial departure lounge .Departure of Uzbekistan Airways ( Flight No HY 777) was at 1545 hrs and a pleasant short journey. At 1745 hrs local Bishkek time touched down in Country No 99 , Kyrgyzstan on my accumulation list of country's travelled.A small airport and immigration had a long queue with me being one of the last travellers to get my visa stamped on my passport.On exiting the arrivals lounge changed currency into.local Som(KGS) with 1 U.S $ = 87 Som(KGS) . A few tax drivers approached me quoting 1000 Som(KGS) for the long ride to " Compass Hostel" situated in Downtown Bishkek.
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| "COMPASS HOSTEL" situated on ground floor of this plush building on Tynystanov Street, All the prominent tourist landmarks are within walking distance from this locality. |
Finally haggling with one or two driver's a driver agreed to drive me for 700 Som(KGS) to which I agreed as he had another lady passenger in the car.It was a long 31 Km drive from Manas International Airport to Bishkek City Centre through excellent highway road from airport with gigantic trees on both side of the highway.On the way he stopped near a supermarket as the lady wanted to exchange money. As for me having just survived on dry fruits for lunch grabbed a " Samosa" snack from a vendor and felt relieved..Once we entered Bishkek city limits the traffic got bad and at a major bus Terminal the lady passenger alighted the Range Rover car to board a bus.From the bus Terminal it was a long drive to " Compass Hostel", a prominent landmark hostel in Bishkek,situated on the ground floor of a large building on Tynystanov street.Manager Ms Altynai welcomed me and after the normal formalities of registration was taken to " Room No 8" on the first floor.This was a large double bunk bed room having 4 large bunk beds that could accommodate a total of 8 guests of which i occupied bed "No 4", spotlessly clean akin to a 5-star hotel with a gallery overlooking the plush Turkish embassy building.There were large lockers in the gallery and very efficient A/c cooling system of the palatial spacious "Room No 8". My roommate on the next bed was a young Kyrgyzstan man and otherwise just the 2 of us in this palatial International Boarding school type hostel.Travel educates. I got the A/ C started and it was a decent 4 hrs sleep,the maximum that I can sleep in 24 hrs.So far so good .
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| Kyrgyzstan is bounded by Kazakhstan on the northwest and north, by China on the east and south, and by Tajikistan and Uzbekistan on the south and west. Most of Kyrgyzstan’s borders run along mountain crests. The capital is Bishkek (known from 1862 to 1926 as Pishpek and from 1926 to 1991 as Frunze).Bishkek is situated at an altitude of about 800 metres (2,600 ft), just off the northern fringe of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, an extension of the Tian Shan mountain range. These mountains rise to a height of 4,895 metres (16,060 ft).It’s a gateway to the Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains and Ala Archa National Park, with glaciers and wildlife trails. |
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| At Panfilov park with local Kyrgyz Miss Eskadirinova Bermet and Miss Akmaral . Thanks to these two young art students who were drawing in the Park and who went out of their way to guide me to Panfilov Park that i got off to a canter on my "SOLO" discovery travel across Bishkek. Language was a big hurdle both in Tajikistan and now here in Bishkek as average common locals are mostly illiterate in English Language. NOTE(Solo Travellers) :- Carry a language translator application on your smart phone with local Sim Card Internet to make travel easier and safer . |
Wednesday (12/6/2024)Bishkek :- Just 2 of us guests in the palatial 8 guests " Room No 8" of " Compass Hostel ".Excellent beds and utmost cleanliness akin to living in a self contained studio apartment.The toilet cum bathroom was tiny akin to my room in Hotel Sakho in Dushanbe. There was a ironing stand as well as rack for drying clothes and after ages did a " Emergency Ironing" of the clothes I got washed at Hotel Sakho.Although " Middle Class" upbringing I never ironed and washed my clothes at home, same done by my mother when young and on arrival of washing machine I did wash my clothes but never got them ironed.At my young age I was learning a new skill, ironing of clothes.Travel educates.After a nice jacuzzi style bath relaxed in my bed.At 0745 hrs went to the main hostel lobby /dining hall where receptionist/cook Altynai was preparing the breakfast.More of a European breakfast unlike in "Hotel Sakho" which was a combination of Tajik pancakes/Nan milkless lemon tea with Western style breakfast.In "Compass Hostel" it was a single boiled egg and European style sausage,tomato with a rice porridge.Changed over from milkless lemon tea to coffee with milk at " Compass Hostel".After breakfast went to my room and met my new room mate Mr Oleg Rezhnovski from St Petersburg in Russia. Barring Goa he had travelled to most places in India and spoke more fluent English than me !
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| Entrance to Panfilov Park which has a children's amusement park at one end with a landmark Ferris Wheel. |
Yes, a Russian from St Petersburg absolutely fluent in the English language.Reminded me of Late American/Indian actor Mr Tom. Alter who spoke better Urdu and Hindi than a majority of Indians. Ahoy ! Mr Oleg Rezhnovski was involved in the cruise yacht business company managing "Leto Yachting" , a prominent Russian yachting company as administrator to the owner.Got dressed and headed out of the hostel with a tourist guide map given to me by receptionist Altynai with destination being Ala-Too Park and all the landmark parks in the vicinity. From the hostel walked onto Tynystanov street and asking for directions walked straight ahead passing main Toktugal Street and palatial Chui Avenue to finally reach a large garden with statues which was "Oak Park" .Asking for directions to Panfilov Park was lucky to be helped by two young shy giggling college student girls studying architecture who literally became my guide. Miss Eskadirinova Bermet and Miss Akmaral could understand english but could not converse and we three walked to Panfilov Park. On the route we passed Ala -Too Square , the main central square of Bishkek which has the 10 M( 33 ft) equestrian statue of epic National hero Manas.
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| Ala-Too square was built in 1984 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Soviet republic of Kirgizia. It was then decorated by an imposing statue of Lenin, which was later moved in 2003 to the smaller Old Square situated behind Kyrgyz State History museum.The Lenin statue was replaced by the Erkindik statue symbolizing freedom. In 2011, yet another statue was inaugurated, that of the great hero Manas the Magnanimous , to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the independence of Kyrgyzstan. The height of the Statue of Manas with the pedestal is 17 m and 55 cm. It is a bronze statue depicting the national Hero Manas on horseback and next to the statue is the official flagpole of Kyrgyz Republic which was removed during my visit as construction work was in progress on the large ground in front of the Statue of Manas.Landmark Kyrgyz State History museum is in the background of the equestrian statue of Manas on Ala-Too Square. |
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| CHUI AVENUE is the main Street in Bishkek City Centre. All the landmark parks face this street and just a straight walk along Chui Avenue will take a tourist to the landmark parks of Bishkek. Beautiful broad streets and Bishkek is known as one of the World's greenest city's for its numerous parks and gardens |
Finally reached Panfilov Park which has a statue of Panfilov and a part of the park having been converted to a amusement park also having a giant Ferris wheel.Finally thanking young Eskadirinova and Akmaral began my solo discovery of the vicinity and headed towards Ala-Too Square . Came across the Statue of Lenin which was located behind the "State History Museum".A group of tourists from Singapore were also at the same locale and we helped each other click photographs.From the "Statue of Lenin" visited the "State History museum" and after purchasing the ticket costing 200 Som made my entry into the imposing building facing Ala-Too Square.Its better a tourist takes the lift to the fifth floor and gradually walks down viewing the exhibits on various floors.I began on the ground floor(first Floor) and then took the lift to the fifth floor and walked down.The museum provided free WiFi .In the section where historical books of the Quran were kept came across guide Mr Daniyar and picked up a conversation with him regarding guidance in seeking group tours to Issyk -Kul Lake and Ala Archa National park.
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| Inside Kyrgyz State History Museum which has 5 floors. Exhibit of Maj - General I. V. Panfilov's working table and chair.The State Historical Museum of the Kyrgyz Republic is one of the largest museums in Central Asia.The first exhibition was presented on March 5, 1927. Originally it was called as the Central Historical Museum of Kyrgyzstan. In 1933 it was renamed the museum of local history. In 1954 it was awarded the name of the State Historical Museum.The museum contains exhibits that tell about the history of nomadic peoples from the Stone Age to the present day.The museum’s extensive collection of more than 90,000 exhibits includes artifacts from Kyrgyzstan’s prehistory, from its ancient Silk Road era, Soviet-era history, and modern state. Culture exhibits focus on Kyrgyz nomadic culture, traditional handicrafts, and the musical instruments used to make Kyrgyz folk music.The museum contains various photographs and documents about the formation and development of the Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic.There is also a section having ancient manuscripts of the Quran.The current building where the museum is located was built in 1984.In 2021,after a 5 year reconstruction the Historical Museum was opened with more than $30 million spent on it. There are many amazing things in the Historical Museum,like the wooden statues of horses worth €17,000. |
He himself was booked by a tour group of Indian tourists and gave me the contact number of a tour agent Ms Sabeena whom i contacted on Whatsapp.
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| At the Wooden Horses exhibit in Kyrgyz State History Museum. |
The Museum WiFi was weak and couldn't download the local guide references she gave me.Finally thanking Mr Daniyar made my way to other exhibits in the museum.Finally made my exit from the museum and as i was hungry decided to have my first lunch in Bishkek at Osh Bazaar.Boarded the bus on Chui Avenue and the conductor accepted cash.Told the conductor to inform me on reaching Osh Bazaar which was a reasonable long drive from Ala-Too Square.Alighted the bus and walked towards the large building that was a shopping mall named Besh Sary Siti.Osh Bazaar was located just behind this landmark building , a typical Asian Bazaar. Osh Bazaar was created in 1983 reminding me of Bazar's in my home city of Mumbai, crowded and packed with street vendors and shops selling various products.Designer counterfeit footwear was on sale as also clothing and a host of other products.Lunch was at a restaurant in Osh Bazaar where the menu was in Kyrgyz language and thanks to a lady customer having a smart phone language translator that i managed to convey my selection of meal. Lunch was"Pulao" , a typical central Asian dish which i first tasted in Tashkent.After my meal boarded the bus back to landmark Ala-Too Square .Visited "Oak Park " that has numerous statues at various points within the park.
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| At the Statue of Vladimir Lenin, a rare statue outside the present day Russia.Bishkek's huge Lenin statue remains the only major statue of Lenin left in Central Asia, presiding over the ceremonial heart of the capital city. After gaining independence from the Soviet Union, most of the new Central Asian republics demolished their monuments to Vladimir Ilyich Lenin.The Lenin Monument in Bishkek has a complex history that reflects the changing political landscape of Kyrgyzstan . The statue was originally erected in 1984 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic. Like many Lenin statues across the former Soviet Union, it was a symbol of the communist regime's influence and power.Following the fall of communism in 1991, there was a wave of decommunization and Lenin statues were taken down in many cities. However, the Lenin statue in Bishkek remained in place until 2003, standing prominently in the square that now has the equestrian statue of Manas.The Statue was relocated to its present location behind the Kyrgyz National Museum. |
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| Statue of Kyrgyz Queen Kurmanjan Datka at entrance to "Oak Park" now known as Chingiz Aitmatov park.Oak park is one of the oldest in Bishkek. It bears the name of the great Kyrgyz writer Chingiz Aitmatov now. Most of the trees in the park are the same age as the city. The very first of them were planted in 1890 by the famous Russian botanist Alexei Fetisov.The park houses an open-air sculpture museum with more than 90 exhibits. The first sculptures appeared here back in 1984, when the All-Union Sculptors Symposium was held in the city. Its participants presented works on the theme "Labor and Peace", that were installed in the park. The number of sculptures increased over time. |
From "Oak Park" walked a little further to "Fighters of the Revolution" monument and then decided to make my way back to home away from home "Compass Hostel".
Ms Aian was the new receptionist with Ms Altynai going on leave as they alternate duty every alternate day.Did get confused as it was my first day into a new city and thanks to a local did retrieve my bearings and reached my hotel.
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| A corner for "CHESS" in beautifully wooded Erkindik Boulevard.Erkindik Boulevard was first planted by the tsarist-era Russians in the late 1800s and the street was called Bulvarnaya (Boulevard). It became Dzerzhinsky during Soviet times after Felix Dzerzhinsky,founder of dreaded Soviet Secret police "Cheka" and then became Erkindik (Freedom in Kyrgyz) after the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991.Take a walk along this Boulevard that has plush restaurants on the edges of the park.. |
Checked my mail and Tourist agency employee Sabeena sent me a link to contact for local packaged tours and on messaging the tour agency was told to pay in advance through a bank deposit and upload the receipt to them through whatsapp.
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| A glimpse of only the " FOOTWEAR" shops in a section of Osh Bazaar in Bishkek. |
I explained the tour employee my ignorance of language and payments in Bishkek being a tourist and told him would pay on joining the group .He told me that it could be fully booked as they only excepted pre-paid tourists.Took the gamble of being refused a seat in the tour bus as in any case i could pay them on the spot for the next tour as they regularly conducted local guided tours.He messaged me the reporting point for the guided tour which was in close proximity to "Compass Hostel".Decided to survey the locale as to not get lost tomorrow morning and in the process took the wrong road and discovered Erkindik Avenue which had a giant chess board on a corner of a section of the park with men playing chess on various tables in that same corner of the park.I was a genius in playing the game of "Drafts" but sadly never learnt to play Chess. Took a photo-shoot on the giant floor chess board positioning the "Queen" on a square .
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| End of a exhausting day's tour. " Sushi Rolls" for dinners at a Japanese restaurant near my residence " Compass Hostel ". |
From Erkindik park asked directions and located Dodo Pizza on Shopokova street , the rendezvous for the start of the group tour.Back at the hostel relaxed on the Internet and at approximately 1800 hrs there was loud thunder and it started raining. Unpredictable weather in Bishkek from early morning drizzles to bright sunshine and heavy thunder and rain, all in a single day.As it was still drizzling dinner was at a Japanese restaurant just a few meters away from the hostel.After decades ate food which was " Sushi Rolls" with chopsticks,the Japanese way .Back at " Room No 8" there were two new guests.Received the bad news that there was no vacant space for the group tour tomorrow as I had not booked online.
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| Victory Square is dedicated to the victory over Nazi Germany. It was created in 1985, on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the end of the Second World War.The square features a statue of a woman, waiting for her husband to return home from the war. The depicted women is standing under a tynduk in the form of a funeral wreath held by three ribs of red granite.Another part of the square is the eternal fire. A guard of honour detachment from the National Guard of Kyrgyzstan guards the eternal flame, with the changing of the guard ceremony taking place every hour.Official Victory Day Parades in honor of Victory Day (9 May) take place on the square |
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| If visiting Bishkek don't leave the city without tasting these 3 drinks sold by women in parks and various locales across the city. This lady is selling her drinks in Panfilov Park.The 3 drinks are 1) Chai(green Tea) 2) Chalayan and 3) Maksym All the 3 drinks are stored in plastic containers .Notice the tree's and maintenance of the park as also all Parks and gardens in Bishkek city.Bishkek is called one of the greenest city's in the world. |
Thursday (13/6/2024) Bishkek :- A early breakfast was the leftovers of the " Sushi Roll" of yesterday's dinner at the Japanese restaurant.At 0630 hrs walked the distance to Dodo Pizza on Shopokova street where the Mercedes mini bus was parked .The tour guide Mr Talgat told me that the van was totally booked and showed me the method of operating the " ATM" machine installed outside a store in case there was another tour which I wanted to join. These ATM machines are located all over Bishkek city outside malls/ banks.Waited till 0730 in case of any booked cancellations but none and walked back to the hostel dejected as it was not my fault for missing this tour but just bad luck of being a tourist and illiterate in Kyrgyz language. In life you win some and lose some.
Breakfast was at 0800 hrs and at the breakfast table met Mr Pedro a Spanish citizen from Madrid.
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| Dordoy Bazaar is the largest bazaar in Kyrgyzstan, it is one of Asia's greatest public marketplaces, comparable to Bangkok's Chatuchak Weekend Market or Tehran's Grand Bazaar.Most of the market is built of double-stacked shipping containers. Typically, the lower container is a shop, while the upper one provides storage.The market is said to date from 1992, its 15th anniversary being celebrated in 2007.As of March 2024, approximately 70,000 people work officially and unofficially in connection to Dordoy.The containers, organized in dozens of rows, form streets and plazas of a sort covering the equivalent of 160 rugby fields.Smaller buildings between the blocks of containers house restaurants, administrative offices, toilets, hotels, and other ancillary structures.Most of the goods sold at Dordoy arrive from China,with the second largest source (perhaps 30% of all imports) being Turkey. One can also find clothing from Thailand and Europe, music CDs from Russia, and goods from many other countries in Eurasia, as well as a selection of local products.Although many of the people working and shopping at the Bazaar speak Kyrgyz, Russian is the main language used in trade. |
Told him I had visited Madrid and the San Fermin festival in Pamplona and hence began a discussion on bullfighting. From Mr Pedro learnt the method in which the bull is systematically slaughtered in the bull ring in 3 stages with the public applauding.
Also learnt a Spanish footballing term from him.Travel educates.
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| Bishkek Clock Tower located on intersection of Chuey Avenue and Yusup Abdrakhmanov street. Installed in 1984 |
After breakfast walked the long distance towards the Clock tower and on seeing a crowded bus stop inquired about Marshrutka No 230 which plied between Bishkek City Centre and Dordoy Bazaar. Boarded the No 117 bus to Dordoy Bazaar paying the driver in cash.Dordoy Bazaar is approximately 11 Kms from Bishkek city centre. Excellent bus and crowded as it was office hours.Finally at 0945 hrs reached Dordoy Bazaar which was the last stop of the bus.Entered Dordoy Bazaar and thought I was in a container storage Terminal of a shipping port as this largest market in Kyrgyzstan and Central Asia had " Containers" being used as shops as well as storage godown for goods.To be seen to be believed .Had a snack of " Shashlik( Kebabs)" which in Central Asian countries is served only with onions with no lime or pungent chilli chutney as in India.After my snack walked back to the entrance and after a little waiting boarded the " No 320 Marshrutka " back to Bishkek city centre.On the return journey the normally packed Marshrutka was empty with just me and another lady passenger.Unbelievable.The driver on knowing I was from India inquired about Hindi actor Mithun Chakravarti and broke into a song from the mega hit Hindi movie of the 1970's " Bobby" to which I sang the first few verses.
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| Kyrgyz National Academic Opera and Ballet Theater is named after Abdylas Maldybaev, a well-known Kyrgyz Soviet composer, opera singer, actor, educator, public figure and People's Artist of the USSR. The magnificent theater building in the strict and young classic style with elements of the ancient Greek tradition was built in 1953 under the command of N.P. Provorov. The permanent authorized representative of the architect was Pavel Petrovich Ivanov. P.P. Ivanov is the chief architect of the city of Frunze(Bishkek) and is rightly considered the founder of the Kyrgyz architectural school.The opening of National Opera and Ballet Theater was held on May 15, 1955. The theater has staged world-famous operas and ballets, such as “Eugene Onegin” by Tchaikovsky, “Faust” by Gounod, “Aida” by Verdi, and “Bolero” by Ravel. |
Finally reached Bishkek city centre passing alongside the Kyrgyz National Opera and Ballet theatre,a landmark of Bishkek and finally stopping near the bus terminus.
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| A stroll in plush " Zum Aichurok " shopping mall.This was the first shopping mall of Bishkek. |
Visited the Kyrgyz National Opera and Ballet theatre reception ticket counter to inquire if a Ballet show was on the program but the answer was in the negative.From the Ballet theatre it was a short walk to " Victory Park" which had a beautiful rose garden besides being impeccably maintained with the eternal flame burning brightly.From " Victory Park" walked back towards my normal bearings towards home away from home when inquisitive curiosity made me visit the landmark " Zum Aichurok" shopping mall.This plush shopping mall had 4 multiplex theatres but no Hindi films were being screened and just one English film.On the topmost floor was a entertainment playground for children.From " Zum Aichurok " mall made my was back to " Compass Hostel".Receptionist Altynai was back on duty and immediately informed her regarding my booking for Issyk-Kul Lake. She did try many local connections and finally did get a link and booked my seat for a trip to Issyk-Kul lake.Later in the evening boarded a Marshrutka to Osh Bazaar.This being the second visit I went sightseeing around a part of this large Bazaar that had everything from clothing to hardware products and fishing equipment.Inquired about " Kymyz " and was directed towards the dairy products section of this sprawling Bazaar.
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| Bishkek Parliament House |
With great language difficulty traced the " Dairy section" of the Bazaar which was a large enclosed market with women selling various dairy products.
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| Beautiful flower decor along the Boulevards of Bishkek City. |
At the last corner of this dairy market were two women who were the only retailers dealing in " Kymyz".She gave me a little for tasting and honestly it was very different from normal curd."Kymz" is fermented mare's milk and considered mildly alcoholic.Finally after the " Kymz" drink retraced my steps back to the main road which seemed different and boarded " No 254" Marshrutka which to my surprise took a different route and got to sightseeing new locales of Bishkek city.Passed alongside the Shereton Bishkek hotel and thought I had boarded the wrong route and was finally relieved on arriving in familiar recognizable surroundings. A young gentleman speaking fluent English guided me thinking I was lost and thanking him walked the familiar road to " Compass Hostel".After a short rest in the hostel decided to have dinner and headed towards the mountain side road and came across the Turkish Embassy situated next door to " Compass Hostel".On the road opposite " Compass Hostel" was the Iranian embassy. Coffee restaurants are very popular in Bishkek with a plush coffee shop being in the same building and next door neighbour of " Compass Hostel ".There was also a elite 5- Star style barber shop named " Wall Street" in the same building as " Compass Hostel " and which seemed to be doing a roaring business.Dinner was a hot dog and a pattice purchased from a takeaway shop.Realized I was residing in one of the plushest locality in Bishkek.
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| Frunze Museum is dedicated to exhibiting artifacts of Mikhail Frunze and is a authentic "TIME CAPSULE" of the Soviet era.Many of the exhibits have a little sub-title in English language.Mikhail Vasilyevich Frunze(1885-1925) was a Soviet army officer and military theorist, regarded as one of the fathers of the Red Army.In 1926 the present city of Bishkek was renamed Frunze after Mikhail Frunze and in 1991 after formation of Kyrgyzstan the name was changed to Bishkek.The Frunze Military Academy, one of the most prestigious military educational institutions in the Soviet Union, was also named in his honour. The museum opened for the first time in December 1925, the aim with the creation of the museum was to commemorate Mikhail Frunze in the house where he was born.This house over which this museum stands was built in 1879 by Vasily Frunze, Mikhail's father. In 1967, the museum was renovated after the anniversary of the October Revolution, the muralists Alexei Kamensky and Alexander Voronin participated in the decoration of the building. In 2002, the building was added to the State List of Historic and Cultural Monuments of Republican Importance.In 2001, the museum contained about 6583 objects. Some of these artifacts were donated by Mikhail's family or friends, including furniture and plates. One of the main exhibits of the museum was an adobe hut.The museum contains books, manuscripts, documents, photographs and paintings. There have been a few thefts of some of the museum exhibits in 2014 and 2019.During my visit to the museum a teacher was guiding her young students across the exhibits in the museum. |
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| Fresh fruits and vegetables shop |
Friday (14/6/2024) Bishkek:- In the morning realized I was the lone guest in palatial " Room No 8" with the A/C at 17*c ,cool but not chill.Our room gallery faces the palatial estate of the Turkish consulate bungalow building ,a plush residential locale with all the historical parks walking distance from "Compass Hostel".After the normal "European Breakfast"made my way out of the hostel with my day's agenda being "Frunze Museum" and lunch at the most praised moderately priced restaurant in Bishkek, "Cafe Faiza".Weather was excellent , bright sunny morning with not the usual signature early morning drizzle of rain.On reaching "Oak Park" was not surprised to see the beautiful wooded park desolate and walking along the beautiful flowered pathway came across the statue of Imanely Aiderbekov and decided to walk across "Chui Avenue" onto the opposite side and inquire directions to "Frunze Museum".
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| Holy Resurrection Cathedral(Russian Orthodox Church) .The bright blue spires of this Russian Orthodox cathedral, opened in 1947, stand out along Jibek Jolu street .Entered the church which has a spartan interior, decorated with icons and studded with candles.The Church is open to visitors.Having travelled across eastern Europe was always in awe of the external architectural beauty of Russian Orthodox churches with its onion shaped domes. |
Walking along the beautiful footpath of the broad clean heavy traffic road came across the main gate of the "Kyrgyz State University " named after Ishenaly Arabaev is one of the oldest and well established University in Kyrgyz Republic.
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| Internal view of Holy Resurrection Cathedral. |
The Statue of Kyrgyz author Chingiz.Aitmatov is a prominent landmark on this side of the road facing the statue of Manas on Ala-Too Square on the opposite side of the road. Entered the University campus that was open to all and just walked across and as usual a young crowd of men and women were seated on benches inside the campus.Exiting the campus inquired with a pedestrian the direction to "Cafe Faiza" and he showed me the street and route on the map which meant i retrace my steps back across "Chui Avenue" onto Panfilov Park and then take the Jibek-Jolu Avenue road which meant 2-3 Km of walking.Walking in Bishkek was now compensating my regular 1 Km swimming fitness exercise at home in Mumbai, besides the weather was excellent with a hot Sun but cool breeze.If i knew the local language would have taken a taxi and hence began my long walk across Jibek-Jolu avenue.On the way came across a few shops selling fruits and as for me loved the plums and peaches of Central Asian countries.Entered a small supermarket and was surprised at the different brands of liquor on sale although liquor is not sold in almost all restaurants and not allowed to be consumed in public places like gardens.
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| "Cafe Faiza " crowded at lunch time. One of the best moderately priced restaurant in Bishkek and a must visit . Name is in Kyrgyz/Russian language as also the menu.. |
Came across the landmark Russian "Holy Resurrection Cathedral"and entered the Cathedral having visited many Russian Orthodox churches during my travels across former European states of the former Soviet Union.After visiting this beautiful church as are all Russian Orthodox churches continued my onward walk across Jibek-Jolu avenue.Finally on passing a few restaurants that didn't have the English name "Cafe Faiza" realized i must have overshot my supposed destination.Inquiring with a local he told me i had walked past the cafe and thankfully walking back just a few meters was in "Cafe Faiza" which at 1130 hrs was almost packed with diners.Lunch was"Beef Steak with rice" costing 290 Som, very moderate for a plush absolutely popular restaurant of Bishkek.After a sumptuous lunch with pepsi instead of a glass of beer was about to walk out of the restaurant after paying the bill when the gentleman next to me spoke in English and i immediately asked him the direction to "Frunze Museum".
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| A Exhibit inside M.V.Frunze Museum. |
He gave me directions and off i was on the road for the reverse marathon walk.Walked for a short distance along Jibek-Jolu Avenue and then took the first right road into "Manas Avenue".Walking along "Manas Avenue" again asked for directions and was told to take the first left hand road named "Frunze Street".I did as told and it was a very long straight walk along Frunze street also realizing the i had also walked past Panfilov park having walked almost 4 Kms in total.Walked past Dolen Omurzakova stadium (Spartak) that is the main sports arena of Kyrgyzstan, which seats 23,000 spectators and is the home stadium of the national team.
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| Dolen Omurzakov Stadium (Spartak Stadium) Mostly used for Football matches 23,000 capacity and home ground of Kyrgyz National Football Team. |
This walk reminded me of my marathon walk all across Central London in 2010 in order to save travel penny's but at this stage in my life it was pleasure of discovery and not monetary thrift that was making me test my own limitations of stamina and travel will power.Ahoy !Finally on asking final directions sighted the typical Soviet era building of "Frunze Museum" which was established in 1925 to commemorate Mikhail.Frunze in the house where he was born and hence his artifacts were put on display..Entry fee was 150 Som and began my tour from the 3rd floor of the building.As a student of history and a voracious reader but now a convert to "Internet digital reading" realized i knew more about Indian,British,and World history which included Czarist Russia and the overthrow of Czar Nicholas II than about Soviet Union era history .Excellent original exhibits of photographs and weapons of war were on display.A group of young kindergarten children entered the museum along with their teacher holding a cane and explaining various exhibits in the museum.
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| BOSOGO :- Tourist Hospitality Centre in Oak Park A guide for tourist inquiry for foreigners as well as locals. |
From the third floor walked to the second floor where there were other exhibits and developed a conversation with the museum floor guide cum security officer Mrs Nurkamal who spoke a little bit of English.Was finally on the ground floor which has a replica model of the house in which Mikhail Frunze lived .From the museum walked the now familiar route across Oak Park which had a small building named "Bosogo" used as a tourist information centre and having handicrafts for sale.A little further from this art gallery building came across St Nicholas Church built in 1885 and now converted to a "Art Venue" and considered one of the oldest buildings in Bishkek. During my visit they were exhibiting local Kyrgyz handicrafts and art decor for sale.
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| St Nicholas and the Wonderworker Church in Oak Park built in 1885 had both the church and the Russian Drama theatre in the same building. It is now the gallery for "Union of Artists" and hosts exhibitions. This stone building is considered one of the oldest buildings in Bishkek. |
From Oak Park crossed the road and trudged past landmark building "Baytash Towers" , my main location bearing "Lighthouse" in Bishkek City centre from losing my way to "Compass Hostel" in a maze of narrow cross-streets and garden paths.If a "SOLO TRAVELLER" then akin to a Navigator always remember prominent landmarks and roads to prevent yourself from getting lost in a "Concrete Jungle".Like a long distance marathon runner i had to distribute my "Travel Energy" with utmost caution and not overexert myself at my young age.In the evening dinner was at the " KFC" restaurant which was packed with a young crowd and had a waiting time for collection of the food order.Expensive compared to local Kyrgyz cuisine in normal restaurants including Cafe Faiza.Travel educates.Back to the hostel met Russian / English traveller Mr Oleg Rezhnovski who had returned from a trek and was ready to go on his next trek.The Internet servor of " Compass Hotel" was nonfunctional the entire night.A/C was excellent and in fact had to increase the temp as the room got too cold.Guests seemed to be arriving and departing daily with Russian Mr Oleg.Rezhnovski being the only familiar guest since i arrived in Bishkek on Tuesday.
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| Revolution Fighter's Square :-The Martyrs of the Revolution monument stands as a testament to the brave individuals who sacrificed their lives in pursuit of a brighter future. Erected in 1978, this monument serves as a powerful reminder of the struggles and aspirations of the revolutionary era. |
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| Classic Model style goods delivery employee on his electric cycle. |
Saturday(15/6/2024)Bishkek :- No internet service and early morning at 0600 hrs had a walk in the palatial oak wood tree garden of Erkindik Boulevard next to Moskovskaya street ,nothing but greenery of Oak tree's. Bishkek city is considered one of the greenest city's in the World and definitely the greenest among Central Asian cities.Later returned to the hostel and thanks to next door neighbour's plush ,"Mokki Coffee" restaurant that i got to use their WiFi and check my mail and get updated .In the 21st century the "SmartPhone Internet" is as indispensable as food or water. Ahoy !A bright Sunny morning as i walked down the now familiar straight walk past landmark building "Baytash Towers"past Chui Avenue reaching "Oak Park" where i got to view my first wild life spotting of my entire travel. Spotted a squirrel climb up a tree, giant in size compared to the average squirrel.From Oak Park made my way towards "Theatre Square(Abdylas Maldybaev National Opera and Ballet Theatre) and from there finally to 'Victory Park".Finally from "Victory Park" retraced my steps walking along "Theatre Square"., "Revolution Fighter's Square","Oak Park" and "Ala-Too Square" , just admiring the flowers and maintenance of these beautiful parks and gardens with fountains that were functional.At Ala-Too park there was a massive reconstruction work in progress where normally the Kyrgyzstan flag was hoisted next to the equestrian statue of Manas.
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| Early morning walk in Erkindik Boulevard next to Moskovskaya Street near " Compass Hostel " Bishkek is one of the World's greenest cities.Indescribable feeling being alone in this huge park early morning at 0530 hrs with just a few joggers,walkers and Dog pet walkers. |
Hence there was no changing of guards ceremony on Ala-Too Square.Had a drink of "Maksym(wheat, barley, corn mixture)"from a lady selling the usual 3 signature drinks of Kyrgyzstan which is Chai(tea),Chalap(akin to Curd) and Maksym with "Maksym" being being the National drink of modern Kyrgystan.You will find women selling these 3 drinks stored in casks at various locales across Bishkek city.I realized i was actually on a relaxation holiday travel and not on a time scheduled work tour and hence decided to just relax and enjoy life just doing nothing but admiring nature's beauty. After relaxation in Oak Park walked back to "Victory Park" and lunch at 1130 hrs was "Kebab/Nan/Coke" at plush "Taksim" restaurant situated next to "Victory Park".Although alcohol is freely available in shops in Bishkek they never serve the same in restaurants.Drinks are available at Taksim but due to language misunderstanding the Stewardess couldn't understand and brought me a coke instead of beer.For the mistake of serving me coke instead of beer the management gave me a free dessert.After lunch walked back the familiar route to home away from home.Thankfully Internet connection was restored and as usual relaxed in "Room No 8" and on " Bed No 4" on the internet. Very spacious accomodation and at night the A/c works overtime in keeping the few of us comfortable.
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| Supreme Court of Kyrgyzstan building :- The Supreme Court of Kyrgyzstan is the highest court of appeal in the legal system of Kyrgyzstan.The Supreme Court also has supervisory powers over lower courts and, since the abolition of the Constitutional Court under the 2010 Constitution, determines the constitutionality of laws. |
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| Can you spot the Squirrel? Wildlife in Bishkek's parks. |
Dinner was " Beef Stroganoff " a Russian cuisine at a plush restaurant on Muscova street just across " Compass Hostel ". Excellent and delicious and I accidentally stepped into this restaurant just out of curiosity. Visited the large Globus Supermarket on the same street and on my way to the hostel purchased a pattice for tomorrow's breakfast.Suddenly at 2100 hrs the door of " Room No 8" opened and a group of young kids barged inside,residents for the night.First time in my lifetime of travel across the Globe and living in various hostels did I come across kids living in the same room as mine.Normally most hostels have a minimum age criteria where kids are not allowed in in common dormitory hostels.From living almost alone I was now living in a 8 bed's single room filled with noisy kids.The quite room literally became a play school and I hoped to at least get my minimum 4 hours sleep.Travel educates.
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| At Cholpon Ata on Issyk-Kul Lake :-Issyk-Kul Lake is 182 kilometres (113 mi) long, up to 60 kilometres (37 mi) wide and its area is 6,236 square kilometres (2,408 sq mi). It is the second-largest mountain lake in the world after Lake Titicaca in South America. Issyk-Kul is an endorheic ( no outflow) saline lake in the western Tianshan Mountains in eastern Kyrgyzstan, just south of a dividing range separating Kyrgyzstan from Kazakhstan. It is the seventh-deepest lake in the world, the tenth-largest lake in the world by volume (though not in surface area), the deepest lake whose deepest point is above sea level (939 meters or 3,080 feet), and the third-largest saline lake. Issyk-Kul means "warm lake" in the Kyrgyz language. Although it is located at a lofty elevation of 1,607 metres (5,272 ft) and subject to severe cold during winter, it rarely freezes over due to high salinity.During the Soviet era, the lake became a popular vacation resort, with numerous sanitoria, boarding houses and vacation homes along its northern shore, many concentrated in and around the town of Cholpon-Ata.These fell on hard times after the break-up of the USSR, but now hotel complexes are being refurbished and simple private bed-and-breakfast rentals are being established for a new generation of health and leisure visitors .Here we group of tourists of "CAPRIZ TRAVELS" group tour are on the Cholpon-Ata beach of Issu-Kul lake. |
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| 263 Km drive from Bishkek to Choplon- Ata Beach on Issyk-Kul Lake and back to Bishkek. Total drive of 526 Km in a single day. Single day Group tour with "CAPRIZ TRAVELS" in a Mercedes Sprinter . |
Sunday (16/6/2024) Bishkek :- The Kids finally kept quiet past midnight and there was suddenly pin drop silence.Must have got about 2 hrs sleep and after my usual toilet routines relaxed on the Internet on my bed.Thanks to excellent A/C that it was comfortable in " Room No 8" and in fact seemed all vacant rooms were booked by this group of school kids.Travel educates as it was now real " BOARDING SCHOOL" hostel lifestyle in primary school.Today happened to be dad Late Louis.J.Furtado's centenary birthday.How time flies and hoped my planned trip to Issyk-Kul lake would be a success as this same trip was postponed on two occasions.Thanks to receptionist Mrs Altynai that i got this booking.This trip was actually scheduled for yesterday but was cancelled due to lack of tourists and was hoping the same wouldn't happen today.Walked the long distance to " Victory Square " and came across two " Mercedes Sprinter " mini bus's parked at the parking lot of the park.Inquired about " Kapriz Travel " and was told their vehicle would arrive at this same place and was finally relieved to be at the right place at the right time.Strolled in the vicinity and finally at 0730 hrs the brand new " Mercedes Benz Sprinter" minibus arrived and introduced myself as also relieved to find the main tour guide Ms Alfiya speak English language ,although not fluently. A very young crowd of local Bishkek tourists on a Sunday outing to distant Issyk Kul Lake.
Made acquaintances with co- traveller Mr Joma and Ms Aizerek.
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| A can of Russian beer and a dip in the shallow beach of Issyk-Kul lake at Cholpon -Ata. |
As usual I was the eldest tourist and only foreigner in this group of young local tourists.At 0800 hrs our driver Mr Aibek began our long 263 Km drive to Cholpon Ata ,the prime tourist beach town on Issyk-Kul lake. I was seated on the seat behind the driver with a young lady and her cute four year old daughter.It was a bright Sunny morning and there was local Kyrgyz and Russian music playing on the vehicle's speaker system.We stopped at the large " Globus" franchise Supermarket for purchase of food products.It was a excellent highway road trip through First World road infrastructure and for the first time got to view and admire the Kyrgyz countryside.The final leg of the drive alongside Issyk Kul lake in the distance was a beautiful sight ,especially in a country that is landlocked with the lake coastline resembling a sea coast.Nature never ceases to amaze.Normally this drive takes approximately 31/2 hrs by road but as we had stopped at two places we finally reached Cholpon Ata town at approximately 1200 hrs.After driver Mr Aibek parked the vehicle we made our way to the lake beach.There was a large Sunday Holiday crowd besides it was also the Muslim festival of Eid.There were numerous "Umbrella Sun shades" for rent in the vicinity of the beach. Unbelievable that this lake beach in a totally landlocked Country resembled a normal sea coast beach except that in the distant horizon mountains were visible rather than water infinity.
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| "SMOKED FISH" sold by vendors on the beach.It is literally raw akin to Japanese Sushi fish.This fish is caught in Issyk-Kul lake and the most famous fish of this lake is the "Chebak" fish species. |
We parked ourselves near a "Umbrella Sunshade" next to the beach and the "Capriz Crew" carried along the portable music system onto the beach.Having visited almost all the Central Asian countries of the former Soviet Union this was the first time i would be swimming in a natural lake in Central Asia. It's a "Ripley's Believe it or not" fact that Kyrgyzstan is the country in the World that is farthest away from a Ocean with the Indian ocean which is 1620 miles(2607 Km) away being the nearest sea to Kyrgystan.The lakes of Kyrgyzstan compensated for the isolation of the Country from the sea. With the loud music playing the young crowd began dancing and as for me was proving the fact that life after 60's is more enjoyable .You are as old or as young as you think.Had a dip in the cold water of this large lake that brought back memories of Lake Victoria in Entebbe in Uganda.The young lady with her four year old child and myself made ourselves comfortable under a "Umbrella Shade" and i took long dips in the water which was very shallow along the coastline.As for the young lady she was busy training her young four year old daughter to swim and it was a hilarious sight with the child enthusiastically trying to crawl in the shallow beach water.
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| The water near Issyk-Kul lake beach at Choplon- Ata is very shallow. A walkway deep into the lake for swimmers to walk down the ladderway kept on the edge along the walkway for entry into deeper lake water. |
What amazed me was after each dip in the water the child would be dried with a towel and wrapped in a cloth in a sleeping position. The child would then get engrossed on her children's " Smartphone " playing her 4 year old children's games. Yes, a four year old child absolutely versatile in using the smartphone for games. A future Olympian swimmer or a chess player in the making ? Akin to a normal popular beach there were numerous water sports activities with " Parasailing" and " Water Jet rides" being popular activities.One drawback was that there were no restaurant or restaurant selling food except for a small shop selling cold drinks, beers and packaged snacks like wafers, biscuits,etc.Tasted a salted snack that tasted like cheese while relishing a Russian beer.Noticed a young boy walking along with a stack of "Smoked Fish" and purchased a fish costing 150 Som . It tasted akin to dry salted raw fish,a normal diet of this region.
So akin to extreme adventure traveller " Bear Gryll" survival television programme ate this raw fish to compensate for lunch.
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| End of the day trip to Issyk-Kul lake and dinner at a restaurant in Kemin on our 263 Km return drive to Bishkek. A big thanks to "Capriz Travels". Guide as well as only fluent English speaking member of the group young Miss Alfiya was instrumental in explaining me the locales. |
Have tasted Japanese Sushi before including at the local Japanese restaurant near " Compass Hostel" should say this raw smoked fish had a similar taste. Waded in .the shallow knee deep water alternately while relaxing under the beach Sun Umbrella.Finally at 1800 hrs it was time to make our journey back home.A pleasant drive and at 2015 hrs stopped at a local restaurant in Kemin for dinner.Dinner was " Manty( Meat Dumplings)" and after dinner began our final drive to Bishkek city.Approaching Bishkek got involved in a traffic jam finally reaching destination " Victory park" at approximately 2215 hrs. It was a long walk through the gardens back to home away from home " Compass Hostel"." Room No 8" was silent and empty,the young group of children having left the hostel in the morning and there were no new guest arrivals.Bizarrely the efficiently functioning A/ C was non operational and thankfully the ambient weather was cool and pleasant.
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| Landmark Soviet Era 3 -star "DOSTUK HOTEL" situated Frunze Street next to Victory Square . The Bishkek Central Mosque one of the largest mosques in central Asia built by Turkish Government is in close proximity to this hotel . |
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| View of snow capped Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains as seen from Baitik Baatyr Street in close proximity to "Compass Hostel" |
Monday(17/6/2024) Departure Bishkek :- All things good or bad have a ending and my wonderful travel across Central Asian city's of Dushanbe in Tajikistan and Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan was coming to a end.Reported non functioning of "Room No 8 " A/C to receptionist Altynai and she got it checked and immediately got it functioning.Relaxed in the room,all to myself.Left the hostel at 1100 hrs thanking Altynai for if not for her initiative and my guidance would not have been able to make the Issyk Kul lake trip as not only language but also digital payment in a foreign language ATM was a handicap, the main reason i missed the "Group Tour" on Thursday as they just wouldn't accept cash payment .Believe it or not having been a Nomadic traveller staying at different accommodations across the Globe i do feel a sense of loss whenever i leave the city or Country.Irrespective of a hostel being good or bad it is the hostel/hotel/homestay that makes travel possible in any city,village or country.Walked out of my home away from home "Compass Hostel" in Bishkek and took a different street passing through Erkindik Avenue.
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| " Red Guards Memorial " in Oak Park.A Red granite obelisk over the common grave of Bolshevik Casualties of the 1918 Belavodsk Uprising. |
Walking leisurely through the garden came across a rare English advertisement shop named "Waka Shop" dealing in Vaping and liquor. Came across a beautiful new Govt edifice, The Constitutional Court of Kyrgyzstan " .Was only hoping " Google Search" would help me identify most of the building photographs i clicked in Dushanbe and Bishkek also realizing that any human illiterate in one language could be a genius in another language. Ahoy ! Travel educates.All former Muslim majority countries of the former "U.S.S.R" in Central Asia have declared themselves as "Republics" after Independence and hence do not observe the "Islamic" form of Government with its rigid religious laws as in a few other Muslim countries of the World. I am quoting my own experience having travelled across all the former Soviet Union provinces that became Independent countries after the breakup of the "U.S.S.R" in 1991.On reaching Ala - Too Square casually asked a lady hawker if the major bus-stop in front of me was the " Go Bus" stop for travelling to Manas International Airport. She replied in the affirmative and heaved a sigh of relief.Most importantly a " Go Bus" arrived at the stop during my presence in the locale and on waving the driver stopped the mini bus and I boarded it for the airport although very early.Decades of travel experience has taught me that it is better to be safe than sorry .The bus was excellent,luxurious with A/c and I enjoyed my ride to the airport with the bus having only two passengers .
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| The 31 Km drive from Ala-Too Square bus stop to Bishkek airport in this unbelievable plush "GO BUS" public transport with excellent A/C . Costs only 200 SOM in comparison to 1000 SOM for a private taxi. |
Finally at 1215 hrs was at Manas International Airport. Looked around for a restaurant and on inquiry was told a restaurant existed on the ground floor next to " Arrivals" Exit.Entered the restaurant that was actually a canteen for airport staff and hence modestly priced unlike all airport restaurants that have atrociously inflated charges than a normal restaurant. My last lunch in Bishkek was sumptuous which would also compensate for dinner.After lunch entered the " Departure " section and as usual had to undergo baggage security.After baggage security was now in familiar territory having earned the title of " Nomadic Air traveller".Saw a sign indicating " Free WiFi" and on inquiry was elated to know that Bishkek airport provided free WiFi. Excellent bandwidth and was relieved that at least I wouldn't suffer from boredom bidding time for " Check- In" as the internet would keep me occupied."Check - In " was on the second floor of the departure lounge,a large spacious hall.Check- In was at 1615 hrs and later immigration and finally security check.At " Security Check" was asked to switch on my laptop,a first in my travel across different airports around the World.Finally after the unusual " Security Check" was in duty free lounge and purchased some chocolates with the unspent Kyrgyzstan currency.A decent duty free lounge with the average normal stereotype shops seen in majority of duty free airports.Take-off was prompt as scheduled as also landing in Tashkent.At Tashkent Duty free lounge waiting to board the plane met Corporate executive Mr Nahush.Mohanty who had just concluded his group motorcycling tour with his fellow rider's from the Indian armed forces.
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| End of the nomadic 14 day travel across Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Here at Bishkek Airport heading home to Mumbai with a transit at Tashkent airport.One of my most tough solo travels as "LANGUAGE" was my Achilles heel but finally "OLD MAN" travel experience paid dividends. |
They had a excellent successful motorcycling expedition also getting to witness Central Asian culture like "Falcon hunting" and "Buzkashi" in Kyrgyzstan.At Tashkent our plane was housefull with Indian medical students returning home to India for their annual vacation and take-off was prompt at 2320 hrs. Mr Prasad from Hyderabad,the young Medical student seated next to me was doing a 6 year Medical course in Tashkent and now in his third year told me that they had a annual vacation from June to August and hence the big rush to get to home , India. At 0410 landed in Mumbai and after normal immigration formalities and the mandatory duty free purchase the eternal "Nomad" boarded a pre- paid taxi at a rental of Rs 600 to permanent home for last 49 years only , "Vaibhav Apartments" at Old Prabhadevi road.During my travel across Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and return back to home city Mumbai had changed 7 planes besides meeting various travel acquaintances. Travel educates.
NOTE :- This travelogue is akin to writing of a re-edited history textbook. All photographs are mine as also my personal travel through the countries.The historical facts is through research from various authors and "Wikipedia".
